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The Little Big Horn 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Herb Laeger & Kris Solem, 1992
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 767
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Dec 14, 2003
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Just past the second bolt with more crimping in st...

Description 

Begin at the top of a boulder with a small platform on top (Two bolt belay anchor). Clip the first bolt on a slightly overhanging face and make difficult / technical moves (12-)to a polished dish. Step up left into another dish and clip the second bolt. Continue on thin edges past two more bolts (5.11) and reach a horn at the base of a finger / hand crack. Relatively easy climbing leads to a bulging checkerboard patina face (5.9+). Small TCU's or stoppers / brass protect the final moves to the top. Exquisite rock!!


Protection 

Quickdraws for four bolts, small to medium cams, and small stoppers. A two bolt rappel anchor is at the top of the route. Two ropes are required to reach the ground (140').



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Firmly embedded in the sustained crux section just below the second bolt. Photo by AJ.
Firmly embedded in the sustained crux section just...
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By Murf
Mar 22, 2004
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Continuous through the first four bolts, although there are stances. Not dangerous, but it will get your heart pumping! 4 of 5 stars.

By Murf
May 30, 2005
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I would add that the second had better be solid. Even with a fairly tight rope my second hit the belay ledge popping off at the crux.