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Castle Rock
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Links Effect, The S 

The Links Effect 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Cliff Ellery, Rachael Mayne, Jess and Brian Mercer
Page Views: 133
Submitted By: Cameron Fraser on Jun 2, 2013

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Following the exposed second pitch

Description 

Fantastic multi pitch sport route with exposure that makes you think you are in the Arapiles.

Pitch 1 - 50m

A fantastic slab line alternatively know as "Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish" that is well worth climbing in its own right. Quite technical for the grade with less than positive slopey holds, so you have to rely on your footwork. Crux is getting to the first bolt (a little harder than 5.10a/18 in my opinion). Wonderful views and nice exposure with the valley dropping off below you. Well bolted around the hard moves, but gets quite run out in the middle (up to 8m) when you cross some easier ground. Not a pitch to lead if you are not solid at the grade. Top out at a large ledge with bushes for a relaxed belay.

Pitch 2 - 35m
A stunning traverse, probably the best pitch of the route. Clip a couple of bolts as you move away from the belay, then boldly drop over the edge into a super exposed steep corner. Relish the exposure and make your way up the rising traverse. Keep on the rising traverse for 5 bolts until the roof finishes. Don't follow random lines of bolts or you may end up on a 21 or 24 with hideous rope drag, and worse still some of these lines are not finished yet and go nowhere! The moral of the story is not to just blindly follow the bolts. After the roof ends, head up through some sloper covered bulges and a few more bolts to the next belay. Beware if you fall off on the rising traverse (leading or seconding) you may end up hanging in empty space unable to get back on the wall. I advise you take a couple of prussicks or equivalent to get back on the wall.

Pitch 3 (15m)
From the belay head straight up the short face, following the bolts to the summit. Even tho the pinchy holds are less positive than you may live, they are a relief after the slopers on the first pitch!

From the summit, soak in the view then walk off down the track (to your right from the top belay).

Location 

Furthest left route at the base of the Kookmeyers. More robust description to follow.

Protection 

Fully bolted
Pitch 1 - 14-16 bolts
Pitch 2 - 10ish bolts
Pitch 3 - 4 bolts


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