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Unsorted Routes:

The Line King 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 421
Submitted By: Zac Robinson on Nov 15, 2006
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Starts over a short blocky sequence. Up through a .75 camalot layback/undercling. Then into a chimney with a crack in deep for protection. After that some good, but awkward hands to a sloping ledge. From the ledge, place some gear, then face climb up and left over the arete. From this 'cave' head up and left through hands to fists to off-width. Can somewhat layback the last section.

It's got a bit of everything.


Moving right along the cliff, it is past Kool Kat. About 30' or so before Lynx (Lynx is the next long obvious corner)


Anchor at the top. Bloom recommends (3)1.5, (1)2.5, (4)3.0, (4)3.5, and (2) #4 Camalots. I would take some more stuff in the 0.75-1.5 range to place earlier. (all sizes are for friends unless noted)

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By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 5, 2009
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

A fall on the face climbing section could be bad as a swinging fall onto that sloping ledge would suck. Fun moves though.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Mar 2, 2014
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

This route is a lot easier than it looks and the face climbing section is short with good edges. Save a #4 for the end.