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The Line at Lovers Leap (Question)
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By Edward_
Oct 31, 2012

Hi all... The Line (5.9) at LL... I remember reading a lot of accidents at the crux 20 ft up. I was wondering why it is there are so many accidents at this crux? What are the moves like? What is the pro like?

Thanks


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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 31, 2012
Bucky

Edward,

This is my guess as to why there are accidents 20 feet up on the Line. If I recall correctly, the route starts just to the left of the crack proper. You essentially diagonal up and to the right along a flake to gain the crack proper. Now, the flake is protectable along its bottom to middle portion, but then the gear gets a bit scarce. Now, this is not a big deal because there is good gear at the very beginning of the crack proper (I think its like a 0.3 or 0.4 sized Camalot). Unfortunately, the only truly bomber cam placement is also the best handhold/finger slot. What's more is that you have to do a cruxy move getting past this gear placement. So how do people deck? My guess is that people get to that spot and are a little scared so they use the best cam placement as a handhold. They then proceed to plug in other gear (which is likely garbage gear) and then attempt to make the cruxy move past the gear. They then fall, blow the crappy gear they have placed, and deck.

Moral of the story? You have two choices: (a) setting bomber gear that will keep you off the deck and using a slightly bad handhold; or (b) setting crappy gear and using the slightly better handhold. If you are at all unsure about your ability to solo that move, then you just place the good gear and deal with the slightly harder move (its still no harder than 5.9).

Hope this helps.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Oct 31, 2012

Yeah. There are accidents there because the crux is 20 feet up and you only have one opportunity to place gear. I'd guess most put in one piece and then pull the crux. Some fall on that crux. The gear is good and it holds... most of the time. I have seen many leaders resting on that piece.

Moral of the story... double up. You can get two pieces in that one slot. The route is plenty safe.


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By Edward_
Oct 31, 2012

Great. Thank you for the response!


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