|The North End
This is a super cool, moderate, arete climb at the Gallagher Buttress area. It has nice pockets between thinner make-you-think moves with a position-sensitive crux past the small roof on the arete's left side.
The first bolt is very high, because the rock down low is suspect and doesn't appear to offer any good bolt placements. Using the wall to the left for your feet to reach the first bolt is a secure way to get it, but the arete moves to the first bolt are good too if you're OK with run-out off the deck.
Follow the trail up to the Gallagher Buttress. This route is on the obvious, featured prow just left of the huge, undercut roof first encountered when you reach the Gallagher Buttress area.
6 bolts to cold shuts with no chains.
|By Jason Halladay|
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 25, 2007
Arete routes are awesome and this is no exception. Staying on the arete proper makes for impressive position on this beauty. It's a tad run-out from the last bolt to the anchors, but the rock is sharper and quite secure. To the anchors I stayed on the arete and then reached left to clip em. Others move onto the face after the last bolt and went straight up. Both options go at the same grade. (But stay on the arete for maximum enjoyment.)
Apr 9, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Good route, but I thought the runout at the top kind of detracted from it. My partner and I both thought the crux was just below the anchor.
|By Kirk Miller|
From: Golden, CO
Apr 9, 2013
It's always fun to encounter the crux with the last bolt all but out of sight below....
Good example of a contrived runout detracting from an otherwise stellar climb.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
May 11, 2014
If you move left at the last bolt, it is very straightforward, and it doesn't feel runout or cruxy.