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 ADVANCED
4 Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
For Madmen Only 
Hollywood 
Lester the Molester 
Library, The 
Lower Undercling, The 
Main Street (left) 
Main Street (right) 
Notch, The 
Snowflake 
Sunday Morning 
Undercling, The 
Witches Brew 
Unsorted Routes:

The Library 

YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV British: VD 3c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 15, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies

Description 

Look for the large dihedral at the base of the cliff. The Library climbs the first dihedral then continues through the second "open book" to the left. Because of the traversing natures of this climb (moving left to get into the second dihedral) most top-rope climbers just climb the first dihedral, step to the right and continue the large broken crack system to the ledge.


Protection 

No fixed gear. Easy to set up top rope on Riverview Ledge. The Library is also a good beginner lead. Use small nuts in the corner.



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The Library
BETA PHOTO: The Library
The very obvious dihedral of The Library.
The very obvious dihedral of The Library.
Comments on The Library Add Comment
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By kenr
May 16, 2012

Very delicate move getting into the bottom of the lower dihedral / open book. I'd say at least 5.6. Maybe there's a 5.4 way to do it if work out exactly the correct holds in the right sequence On top-rope perhaps it doesn't matter, just put the climber on tension to get them thru it. But

Leading ... the idea that a starting 5.4 leader is going to figure out the sequence while scared is not a good bet. Note that at least one on-line guidebook says the pro is fairly tricky on this route, recommends against beginning leaders trying it.

I think the more frequently-done finish mentioned above (hand-traverse R at top of dihedral then up to the top, is called "Snow Flake". (The overhang at the top of the lower dihedral goes at no more than 5.6)