The Leisure Route 

nice work.

Very cool route. I must say it was very Leisure. That Stevie Nacho sure knows how to find the good routes.

The anchor on the top pitch needs larger rap rings. The rope pull would be much easier.

Its about time that someone in the great and mighty Wasatch see that there are great routes to be had off the beaten path. Wonderful gem and I hope it gains respect.

WOW!
I'm really excited to see that people are enjoying this route. This line is really fun and exceptionally exciting.

Good Times,

The Nacho

Sorry Stevie...I really wanted to like this climb and expected to do so. It just didn't seem to be a 5.8 climb for 5.8 leaders like myself, I guess? I was coming off an injury, but I was seconding! What is with all the anchors all over the place up there? Nice climbing, though and nice movement. good find. 5.8R/almostX?

Stevie,
Way to pay respect to the old school!
Stevie hates all people, including 5.8 leaders. Ask him he will tell ya himself.
Luked

Luke, you hit it head on regarding my "vision" for this route. I wanted to keep it as old school as possible. Its great to climb easy terrain yet be concerned for your life. The only section of this route that could be dangerous is the easy 5.6 at the bottom. The Leisure route will keep people on their toes and possibly able them for adventures in the desert. A definate must do.

James, Thanks for your comment on this rad route. Please go back when you aren't coming back from an injury. From what climbing I've seen you do, leads me to believe you'll send easily and really enjoy it.

Cheers my friends,

The Nacho
Previously known as TDA

I climbed this for the second time today and it is really fun. I have to say that I am a bit confused by the way it was protected though. The first pitch is sparsely protected and certainly R which is fine. The climbing through the run-outs is easy enough.
What puzzles me is this. If the 1st pitch a nod to the old school, why is the second pitch is so well protected? 3 fixed pieces on easy ground before the roof, # 2 cam placement in the crack at the roof that you can still touch when clipping the first of the 4 bolts on the final bit to the chains. The 2 pitches couldn't be more opposite in how they were equipped.

This thing could be one of the BCC classics and getting a ton of traffic if, dare I say it, a bolt or two were added by the FA party. As it is now between the R rating and Mr. Garrett's comments this fantastic route isn't being climbed as much as it should and that's a shame.

I bolted this route roped solo. I remember being concerned with the second pitch being hard to clean while on solo. I really didn't want to have the "touching the void" situation for anybody seconding this pitch including myself during the first ascent. Thats the reason for the protection placement on the second pitch. The second pitch travels diagonally so I protected it better for the seconding climber. The first pitch is super easy and straight so I protected it less. Fun route

-TDA

Stevie,
Good point about the traverse. Thanks for the doing it.

Get out and climb this thing.

I went back and added four bolts to the first pitch, moved a bolt up high, and added chain to two of the three belays. I feel this route is no longer "R" and is more of a "L" for Leisurely. Rap from the top and hit the middle webbing belay if you have one rope. Rap from the top to the first chain belay if you have two ropes. The only cam needed is a #3 camalot or equivalent. Really fun leisurely route.