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Redgarden - S Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Breed Apart T 
Anthill Direct T 
Archer McLanahan T 
Back in Black S 
Backstroke T,S 
Backtalk T,S,TR 
Black Top S 
Blackwalk T 
Book of Numbers T,S 
Bulge Indirect T 
Bulge, The T 
C'est La Fin T 
C'est La Morte T 
C'est La Vie T 
Chromium Shore T 
Cleopatra Says Happy Birthday to Anthony T 
Continue-us T 
Crack Variation T 
Desdichado T,S 
Dessert T 
East Overhang TR 
East Side T 
Edge of Night, The T 
Exodus T 
Flakes, The T 
Genesis T,S 
Genuine Risk Takers T 
High Noon T,S 
Horizontal Beginnings T 
Je T'Aime T,S 
La Vie d' Pansey TR 
Le Boomerang T,S 
Left Side of Roark, The T 
Mental Cruelty TR 
Night T 
Noggin T 
Off the List (aka Genuine Risk ?) T 
Original Anthill T 
PA's Variation T 
Pansee Sauvage T,S 
Pilgrim S 
Pseudo Sidetrack T 
Pseudo Sidetrack, Direct Finish T 
Redguard T 
Restless Nights T 
Semi-Wild T 
Semi-Wild Slab T 
Shades of Gray T 
Sticky Feet T 
To Night T 
Trinity Cracks T 
Vaporizer, The S 
Variation to Lower Meadows T 
Walk the Talk T 
Whistle Stop, The T 
Whittle Wall, The T 
Whittle Whisk T 

The Left Side of Roark 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: J. Achey and B. Feiges, 1977.
Fixed Hardware: 5 Lead Pins [details]
Season: Faces S/SE.
Page Views: 315
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 14, 2007

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  • Description 

    A great crux on a so-so route. If all of the climbing were as good, it would be famous instead of obscure. This would be a hard start to Sidetrack, or an early bail-out off of Book Of Numbers. It shares most of its climbing with one or the other, but since it preceded Book Of Numbers by a decade, I suppose it has its own place. And since not everyone climbs 12c, perhaps it makes the bottom of the Book Of Numbers accessible.

    Locate a 2-meter section of right-facing dihedral that hangs perhaps 10 meters off of the ground. This is capped by a small roof on its right side.

    Climb up to the corner (5.8, S) and into the corner (good pro, a large stopper or 1.5" cam) and then do the crux to get up through the corner and past it (5.10). From the corner, angle up and left, following a general line of weakness past some of the funkiest holds in Eldo. Not bad, just funky. You have joined Sidetrack/Anthill DIrect. Continue past some museum-quality, antique, fixed pins and up and left to a 2-bolt belay/rap.

    To descend, rap to the top of the tower above 'The Contest' then rap that route.

    Location 

    This route is obscure, but not hard to find. Just left of Genesis, about 1/2 way between Genesis and The Contest, a short section of dihedral hangs 10 meters up off of the ground. The route starts below this and climbs up through it, then left along a ramp system to join 'Sidetrack' and 'Anthill Direct.'

    Protection 

    Not a lot... The crux is reasonably protected by a large nut and a 1.5" cam if you doubt it down. Take a load of 2-foot slings and a few wide-hands to fist-sized pieces. Every now and then a fixed piece will pop up for good gear.


    Comments on The Left Side of Roark Add Comment
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    By Todd Ritter
    From: Lafayette
    Jul 9, 2009

    Good route, 10c PG13/R, somewhat obscure.