|Redgarden - S Buttress
A great crux on a so-so route. If all of the climbing were as good, it would be famous instead of obscure. This would be a hard start to Sidetrack, or an early bail-out off of Book Of Numbers. It shares most of its climbing with one or the other, but since it preceded Book Of Numbers by a decade, I suppose it has its own place. And since not everyone climbs 12c, perhaps it makes the bottom of the Book Of Numbers accessible.
Locate a 2-meter section of right-facing dihedral that hangs perhaps 10 meters off of the ground. This is capped by a small roof on its right side.
Climb up to the corner (5.8, S) and into the corner (good pro, a large stopper or 1.5" cam) and then do the crux to get up through the corner and past it (5.10). From the corner, angle up and left, following a general line of weakness past some of the funkiest holds in Eldo. Not bad, just funky. You have joined Sidetrack/Anthill DIrect. Continue past some museum-quality, antique, fixed pins and up and left to a 2-bolt belay/rap.
To descend, rap to the top of the tower above 'The Contest' then rap that route.
This route is obscure, but not hard to find. Just left of Genesis, about 1/2 way between Genesis and The Contest, a short section of dihedral hangs 10 meters up off of the ground. The route starts below this and climbs up through it, then left along a ramp system to join 'Sidetrack' and 'Anthill Direct.'
Not a lot... The crux is reasonably protected by a large nut and a 1.5" cam if you doubt it down. Take a load of 2-foot slings and a few wide-hands to fist-sized pieces. Every now and then a fixed piece will pop up for good gear.
|Comments on The Left Side of Roark
|By Todd Ritter|
Jul 9, 2009
Good route, 10c PG13/R, somewhat obscure.