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Ledger's Bulge 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 267
Submitted By: Benjamin F on Jul 1, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the start of the bulge. Awesome he...

Always check road conditions and peregrine closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Awkward top rope or heady lead. Seemingly harder at a glance, but once the beta is uncovered and the mental crux is overcome it's pretty fun. Climb very directly to the overhang crimping up the initial thin face.
A small nut protects the first overhang, and some very very long runners protects the second large overhang and crux. Reach high for a horizontal crack. Fall potential is all over the place, but after placing a piece and pulling the lip you can breathe a bit easier. Finish on the Lunch Lady crack and belay on branches, or finish up on the Stairway by traversing to the right (low 5th) to a gear belay.

Location 

Located between Lunch Lady Land and Stairway/Juicifer. Find the massive overhanging bulge above a large ledge in the dead center of the Lower Lunchbox wall, its the largest feature on the wall and pretty hard to miss. Align yourself under the overhang and climb a direct line to the top. Staying a little to the right and avoiding the better holds on the initial face is a fun/thin little challenge.

Protection 

Lead: Set of cams to 3.5", set of nuts (down to micros). The crux is hard to protect, but a large (#4 or #5) Camalot and very long runners can be helpful. Be careful with slinging boulders on the ledge. Wear helmets!

Top rope: Lots and lots of webbing for the trees, the positioning makes it a bit awkward to top rope. Back up with gear.


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By Colin Szehner
From: Oakland, Ca
Jan 20, 2015

Best climb at this crag. thin slab climbing to a moderate roof to an excellent roof, stay left over the bulge for best movement and finish on 15 ft. of 5.9 offwidth climbing. Cool!