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 ADVANCED
Crystal Lake Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ace Dick T,TR 
Arete of Regret T,TR 
Conveniently Sexy T,TR 
Electric Dylan T 
Fingerbang TR 
Flake of Eternal Peril T,TR 
Garbage Chute T,TR 
I'm Lichen This TR 
Jawa Sandcrawler T,TR 
Leaper Route, The T,TR 
Look Sir, Droids! T,TR 
One Armed Swordsman, The T 
Rocktease T,TR 
Tourist Route, The T 
Virgin Mary on a Schwinn T 
Waste of Time T,TR 
Zatoichi At Large T,TR 

The Leaper Route 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Leaman, Dale Leaman, Gary Cifra, 1960's
Page Views: 399
Submitted By: TacoDelRio on Oct 17, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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A look up the route, with the crack on the left. I...

Description 

This is a strange, non-uniform crack with some funky moves. Head up the first bit (the crux) to an easy ledge stance, then up the remaining part of the crack, where the crack edges become quite sharp.

Small loose rocks lie near the top, so be cautious.

One can walk up to the top via some class 3 rock on the far right.

Note: This route was previously called "Call Your Doctor" until I talked with Keith about it and he filled me in on the name he gave it back in the day.

Location 

Approximate coords: 34.31822N / 117.84911W

This route lies just around the corner from Ace Dick. It is easy to spot on the way up by the graffiti on the wall near the ground. This route takes the crack just to the right of the graffiti.

Protection 

Standard rack to 4" or less. I used hexes. The placements are rather odd as the rock's not real good. A tree serves as the anchor on top. Use a LONG cord or webbing anchor to TR this climb in order to avoid as much loose rock as possible.


Photos of The Leaper Route Slideshow Add Photo
Topo for Rocktease and Call Your Doctor.
BETA PHOTO: Topo for Rocktease and Call Your Doctor.

Comments on The Leaper Route Add Comment
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By Climb To Safety
From: california
Feb 14, 2012

this was a fun route. description is spot on, but at the time we thought we were climbing ace dick, didn't realize til after we got home that we actually climbed the leaper route. i still found this route to be pretty simple, mainly because you can protect the route pretty well with some small cams/nuts.
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

This was my favorite route from the day I climbed here, wasn't terribly hard to protect--although getting my first piece (a cam) into that first crack was pretty dang awkward from standing on the ledge (trying to get the dang cam in blind was definitely the crux)(you can put a small one in on the right if you're off balance trying to protect the crack). Other than that very interesting moves, top wasn't hard to protect watch out for loose rock...it looks like you could go left to the anchor of ace dick instead of up to the tree, if you heart really desired that.