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"The Leaning Wall" has a good mix of moderate and difficult routes. The left side of the wall has 5 moderate routes 5.7-5.9. The right side has 5 routes from 5.10c-5.12a. Most routes require some gear placements as well as bolts for protection. Rock quality is typical gritty BV granite, but the routes are cleaning up over time.... Great afternoon sun makes year round climbing possible. (This crag is labeled "Milt's Wall" in the Arkansas Valley climbing guidebook, but "Milt's Wall" actually sits just south and above the 1st set of tunnels.) Routes are described from left to right....
The Leaning Wall is found by driving north on the "River Road" (Co. Rd. 371) from the town of BV. After passing through the first set of tunnels, drive 1/4 mile, just past the "Chief's Head" and park on the right before entering the 3rd tunnel. A large pine tree grows from the foot of the steep, leaning wall. 5 minutes up the moderate slope to the base.
10 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Leaning Wall:
Classic Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
The Orange Corner 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Slabby Steps 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Golden Plate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
The Leaning Face (AKA Backscratcher) 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
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