|The Guillotine/No Sweat
Climb the offwidth crack to the right of Broken Boulders. Guide book says 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, 5.7 if done as a pure layback. I have climbed approximately 60 routes at Devil's Lake so I know the ratings are stiff here, but this route is in the running for one of the hardest 5.4's on the planet. I will go back and lead it before passing final judgement.
The route is just to the right of Broken Boulders. Coming in from the west walk along the base passing an outside corner (Poison Ivy 5.5). Here the base becomes a ledge, walk along this slightly exposed ledge to the next outside corner (5.7 corner). Pass Broken Boulders and look for the offwidth crack to the right. Walk off to the left, head left and down before you reach the Monster Wall.
Light rack on the bigger side. I have not lead this one yet.
DT on the lay back- 2011
Keller leading "The Layback".
|By C. Marchbanks|
From: Golden, CO
Jun 14, 2009
Though the laybacking itself isn't too hard, the bottom of the crack was extremely greasy when I climbed it (6/14/09) making the moves at the bottom a lot harder.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 27, 2011
What does this thing go at if only pure off-width technique is used? Probably pretty burly.
Jun 12, 2011
Much harder that a 5.7 at the bottom due to greasy footings
Aug 20, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
In Sven's book he notes that this is 5.4 if you jam your left leg in the crack, which doesn't make much sense. It also says it's 5.7 if purely laybacked. I would just call it 5.7
This can take a #4, #5 AND a #6 C4 if you feel like placing it.
|By Ryan Fritsch|
Jun 22, 2012
Midway through this climb I got my knee stuck for a few sec. Definitely not my proudest moment, but i got it out by myself with only 2 large bruises.
|By Calvin C.|
Jul 29, 2013
I'm not sure if it still counts, but I used the finger crack on the left, inside the off-width. It made the route much more enjoyable and still difficult enough.