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Baby Face S 
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Direct Route, The S 
Last Straw, The S 
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Rock Jungle S 
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Tail Tucker Arete S 

The Last Straw 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Sean Shannon
Page Views: 178
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 20, 2012

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Description 

This is one of the better 5.12 single pitch routes I've tried at the crag.

Begins in a little "pit" covered by choke cherry bushes about 25 feet left of the start of Rock Jungle.

Climb up a shallow crack feature with good holds on the right side, clipping the first 2 bolts to the left of the crack (the rock here is a little loose, but will clean with time). Then make a stand up move to an undercling that gains the top of the crack and a good hand jam at the base of a little pod.

From the jam, reach up to a good two-handed jug (a little loose) and clip the 3rd bolt. Then step up into the pod and undercling your way left to a good hold and the 4th bolt.

From here is the beginning of the 1st crux, a baffling sequence to gain a jug and rest stance about 15 feet to your left. I won't give it a way but there are a few ways to do it.

From the rest climb up to a finger crack where the wall starts to kick back. Bust a few pumpy crack moves, and gain a stance at the base of the overhanging refrigerator block. Negotiating this steep crux when pumped is the business.

After the refrigerator block the climb eases up for 2 more bolts and ends at a 2-bolt anchor. Currently this anchor has no rap rings, so if you want to lower off and clean the route climb up and right about 10 feet to the rap rings at the top of the first pitch of the route "Ivory Tower".


Location 

Furthest left route on the Left Wall. Three routes to the left of the first pitch of Rock Jungle. One route to the left of the route Ivory Tower. Last route before the wall ends and curves around into a bowl like formation called the "Sanctuary Corridor".

Protection 

12 quickdraws, plus 2 for the anchor. Anchor needs rap rings, but you can climb up another 10 feet to the midway anchor on Ivory Tower which currently has rap rings.


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By Leavittator
May 2, 2012

Is this climb the same as "The Last Straw"?
By Leavittator
May 8, 2012

SCherry, I talked to Sean and he said it is called "The Last Straw". He didn't know where the other name came from. BTW, I agree, it is really good. I did the second ascent shortly after Sean did it.