The Last Stand
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Steve Sutton, Karen Roseme, November 1992|
|Page Views: ||2,059|
|Submitted By: ||Randy on Jan 1, 2002|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Making the crux transition from the seam to the ve...
This fine face route lies on the outside face of the Arrowhead flake. Begin on the right side of the face where a thin seam/crack heads up the face to about 1/2 height. Climb the face and seam/crack past 5 bolts (10c/d), move left and up on ultra thin face past the 6th bolt (12a) which leads to easier (10+/11-) but sustained climbing to a 2 bolt anchor (also used by Firewater Chimney). 90 foot lower/off and/or rappel.
10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/90+ foot rap -- 60 meter rope reaches just fine. (Optional blue TCU between 4th & 5th bolts.)
BETA PHOTO: The massive Arrowhead Flake, The Last Stand heads ...
|Comments on The Last Stand
Apr 23, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a
Very well protected with a short and technical crux. Interesting climbing for the full length of the route.
|By Richard Shore|
Nov 5, 2012
Great stuff! Opted to TR this one after rapping Firewater Chimney. Nice, steep edging on incut patina in a techy-corner yields to seemingly blank friction slab finish. Just when the angle starts to ease back, the holds completely disappear!
|By Rob M|
Mar 11, 2013
Some help folks: "90 plus rap" on the I can do it with a 60m rope and a bit of stretch, or 90 plus as in I'll be a few feet off the ground?
|By C Miller|
Mar 11, 2013
30 meter = 98.42519685 feet so you'll be fine. The notation on the rappel length is a carryover from the days when 50 meter ropes were more common (25 meters = 82.020997375 feet).