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The Last of the Gohegans 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Kris Solem & Ken Gohegan, 1992
Page Views: 396
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 20, 2004

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Desperately searching for a positive hold as Mike ...

Description 

This is the first route as you enter Indian Country from the east. Before you start the climb make sure your belayer is anchored to the wall (TCU's). Begin off of a boulder and traverse right on edges to a bolt. The first crux section (11+) entails awkward stemming across a scooped out area (good edges for feet - microedges for hands) and then searching for a hand hold in a flared tips crack located around a bulge. Higher up, the flared tips crack widens into a beautiful finger crack that ends at a roof where the second crux (11b) is encountered (bolt protected). Pull the roof and enter an easy / fun hand crack (5.7) to the top. Four out of five stars!

Protection 

Small TCU's (#0 - #3), small stoppers, two bolts, and a few medium sized cams provide adequate pro. A large oak tree on a ledge at the top can be slung for an anchor. Fist sized cams are also useful.


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By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Mar 26, 2004
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route! In my opinion, the second crux (at the roof) is as hard as the initial traverse.

We descended to climber's left and rapped off some sun-bleached tat around a boulder which is in dire need of replacement (we didn't have any).