The Last Dihedral
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Rob Chaney cleans the Last Dihedral, at Dome Rock....
Layback, undercling and face climb up the massive, right-facing dihedral for two pitches. While the massive dihedral looks breath-taking from a distance, all should be warned that various parts of the route contain massive, detached flakes or moss-choked cracks. Placing solid gear is impossible for large stretches of the easier portions of the route.
The physical crux of the route is climbing past positive edges on the first 10 feet of the route. After gaining the main dihedral, the route is mostly 5.4 with sections of 5.7. As alluded to, the psychological crux is climbing with non-existent or completely sketchy protection through several sections of the route.
Once atop the dihedral, on a large ledge, step left and either climb a crack up the headwall or rappel with 2 ropes from a tree. If continuing, belay from gear at a small, uncomfortable stance atop the next pitch. One pitch of easy, runout slab climbing leads to the top of the Dome.
On the far south-side of the Dome, hard to miss
1/2" to 5", doubles (or triples) #3 and #4 camalots are useful.
The route also sports 2 lead bolts, both of which are 3/8" buttonheads. There is a bolted belay atop pitch 1 that consists of a buttonhead and a solid Petzl Longlife bolt.
Rob Chaney nears the top of pitch 1 of the Last Di...
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Apr 8, 2013
Atop the dihedral, we went right up a groove. A couple not great small placements and 5.7 face climbing leads to a bolt, then easier climbing past two more bolts to a two bolt belay in a scoop. Last pitch from here goes up with no pro to top out.
(edit) the second time on it, we went up the crack just left from the belay atop the dihedral (seems as described up top). Some gear, then runout face - didn't find a great belay so I traversed over to the bolted belay mentioned above. I preferred the other finish.
Didn't bring a #4 the first time, did bring one the second.
By Patrick Callery
Oct 24, 2013
The undercling traverse at top of p1 is super cool... but you are standing on an enormous layer of exfoliating slab. All sorts of cams go in the crack above but they may not hold a fall. It's a fun route.