Small area with some very good problems and a few routes. I think the area was originally climbed and developed by Bob Parrot.
Take 95 to the Gray exit. Turn onto Route 26 west and follow it into Oxford. Turn right onto Route 121 and head north. About a mile or so down you'll pass a car parts store with a yard full of junked cars. Park at a pull-out on the right about 200 yards after the parts store. If you hit the Mechanic Falls town line you've gone a tiny bit too far. Park then cross the road to the railroad tracks. The quickest way in is to bushwhack about 100 yards straight back to some really big power lines. There you will see the slab and a free-standing boulder. Ascend the slope on either side of the slab to access the climbing and bouldeirng.
At the far right end of the cliff line this amazing but short problem awaits... Orginally done by Dave Sharratt from the obvious crimpers and later done from the lower flake to complete the full line by Morgan Patterson. The crux is the first move to the crimps and then the throw to stick the the sloping edge. Great movement!...[more]Browse More Classics in ME