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Brown's Peak
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Ladybug, The 

The Ladybug 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a

   
Type: Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ British: MS 4a [details]
FA: Chuck Graf, Bob Graf, and Bruce Grubbs, 1969
Season: Warmer months
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: Pete Hickman on May 4, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: This is looking down from the summit of Browns pea...

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Description 

This route climbs the buttress to the right of the hiker's gully. The first pitch is okay and pretty short. The second pitch is great and the highlight of the climb. The third pitch is a little sketchy and not that much fun. Also, you should note that this route does not take you all the way to the summit of Brown's peak. When you get to the top of the Ladybug you then have to rap down to the hikers gully or to the southwest where you can scramble over to the gully. There is also much loose rock on the last pitch. See Greg Opland's book Phoenix Rock II for additional information.


Location 

Continue up the trail towards the gully which turns into a scramble as you get closer to the start of the gully. Avoid moving right too early or you may not find the route. Head towards the gully until just a few feet before you enter the gully, then move right along the bottom face of the buttress. The Ladybug starts just maybe 30 feet to the right of the gully. Plan on at least 2.5 hours from central Phoenix to the base of the climb.


Protection 

Plenty of places for pro of all sizes. No bolts, no anchors, no fixed gear except some old webbing you may find at the very top slung around some sketchy block, that is if the block didn't fall on the last people who rap'd it.



Photos of The Ladybug Slideshow Add Photo
The Ladybug goes up the middle
The Ladybug goes up the middle
This is where we rapped down the back side of The Ladybug buttress.  From here you can scramble up and over to the top of the gully and to the summit.  LOTS of loose rock on the rappel as you can see.
BETA PHOTO: This is where we rapped down the back side of The ...
Here is an approximation of the route.  I just followed the path of least resistance.  To the left is the class 2 hiker's gully.
BETA PHOTO: Here is an approximation of the route. I just fol...
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By Pete Hickman
From: Tacoma, WA
May 5, 2008

For the third pitch I went pretty much straight up from the top of the large fallen block at the second belay. I am not sure this is the actual third pitch though because it looked like maybe the third might move around a little farther to the right.