Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
The Bridger Jacks
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aging Salesman T 
East Face (Sunflower Tower) T 
Egg Drop Soup T 
Hoop Dancer T 
Kokanee Corner , The T 
Learning to Crawl T,S 
Malidea T 
Out From the Shadows T 
Powders of Persuasion T 
Rim Shot T 
Rites of Passage T 
Sacred Space T 
Sandy Vag 
Sparkling Touch T 
Sucker Punch T 
Thunderbolts (Easter Island) T,S 
Vision Quest T 
Wild Flower T 
Ziji T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Kokanee Corner  

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: FA Andrew Boyd, FFA Hayden Kennedy
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall/Spring
Page Views: 1,940
Submitted By: hkennedy on Apr 10, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Entering the crux at the 3rd bolt Andrew Burr pho...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


The Kokanee Corner is an unreal test piece for a desert tower. 3 incredible pitches make this route one of the best lines in the desert! You gotta have all the tricks for this beast -- Crimping, ninja stemming, OW and everything in-between.

P1. Climb Egg Drop Soup 5.12

P2. The money pitch! The first half of this pitch is bolted and the second half is all gear. This pitch has 3 main sections and they are all unique. The hardest moves of the pitch are found in the first three bolts with a V6 strait into a V8ish boulder problem on very thin holds with poor feet. A few bolts of easy climbing with a nice rest lead to a very wild 5.12 stem with a V3 exit move. The final section of this pitch is both the redpoint and mental crux -- after clipping the last bolt bust a mantle into the start of the corner. Totally insane stemming and wild body english are involved for this section. A few key thin finger locks give a few shakes but the whole crux of the corner is less than tips. The corner finally opens up towards the end to good fingers to the anchor -- A full on 40m pitch!

P3. 5.12 finger crack with a very cool boulder problem off a hand jam. Finish on the last OW pitch on Sacred Space.


80 Meter rope is crucial for working the crux pitch.


3 Grey C3s
2 Purple C3s
2 Green C3s
2 Red C3s
Double Set set after that

Photos of The Kokanee Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Burr Photo
Andrew Burr Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of the stemming corner
The start of the stemming corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Burr
Andrew Burr
Rock Climbing Photo: The Crux!
The Crux!
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Burr
Andrew Burr
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Burr photo
Andrew Burr photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Drink up
Drink up

Comments on The Kokanee Corner Add Comment
Show which comments
By chris Kalous
Apr 13, 2014

Did ya get any pics? Post one or two!
By Josh Janes
Apr 16, 2014

Nice Hayden! I've seen the bolts right of Sacred Space shining in the sun from below for years and have wondered what it was... Looks like an outrageous position!
By Jay 1975
From: Colorado
Oct 14, 2015

i wondered also, proud line!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!