The most popular crag in the canyon, mainly due to its easy access, right on the main Rock Canyon trail and also due to easy TR setup. Routes vary from 5.4 to 5.10 all within a 20 foot alcove. There is also a good bouldering slab on the left side.
Park in the main lot. Walk up the main trail for about; don't head left across the streambed. Continue until you pass the pump house on the right. Just before you run into the gate crossing the path, stop. Turn to your right (south). You are looking at The Kitchen.
Overhanging, bouldery start to an overhanging, broken pumpfest. The first part of the route is essentially a slippery, slightly overhanging boulder problem to a tiny ledge. It can be made a little easier by staying to the left. The second section is an overhanging bulge with jugs to help out. After the bulge the rest is easy.It is described in the Ruckman guide as "the classic Rock Canyon sandbag."It requires a fair amount of extension from the bolts to get the anchor point over the edge where ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
You may not care, but I actually don't like the Kitchen at all. I don't enjoy the climbs and all the ash from fires there gets your rope really dirty. That said, it's the easiest place to get to, and in the shade, which is really nice. But not worth it to me, with all the great places to climb in Rock Canyon, I think it's worth it to hike a little to a better spot, but that's just me.
No, it's not just you. The Kitchen is the worst climbing area in the canyon, IMO. Crowded, slippery, dirty. Want easy climbs that you can easily toprope? Head for Tinker Toys or The Appendage. Lots of easy routes in one area? Layer Cake. Easy and safe for kids to play around? Head to the Wild. Want to socialize more? Red Slab is the answer. Want some harder stuff right by the trail? Get on George.
Life (and the climbing season) is too short to spend it climbing in the Kitchen.
not exactly the funnest area in the canyon(probably the worst). The chains get absolutly beat to shit and need to be replaced multiple times each year. if your going here top rope off draws not the chains. this area isn't bad if you are a new trad climber learning about placements though, good place to learn that stuff.
Out of all the times I have climbed in Rock Canyon I never stopped and climbing at the kitchen. After climber there today I know why. Not that fun of an area. Just a weird layout. Someone also recently lit a fire there so the rock is covered in ash... I you are doing this please stop... but in all honesty I don't care because I won't be climbing there again.