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> Thaiwand
The King
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 21
votes
Routes in The Thaiwand
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20 Kilos of Steel S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Another Unnamed 6b S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Caveman S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Circus Oz S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Equatorial S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fit To Be Thai'd S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Getting to Know You S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Inaka (The Country) S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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King and I (First Pitch) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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King, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Live and Let Thai S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Lord of the Thai's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mala Mujer S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Monkey Love S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Juice S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Organ Grinder S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Out of Sticks S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Primal Scream S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sluggard Prince, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Solution 41 S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Spicy Speck Dreams S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Taming the East S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Unnamed 5 S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Unnamed 6a+ S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unnamed 6b S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,402 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Ken H on Feb 25, 2011 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
I'm going to refer to this as The King as it is a commonly done variation of Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera, The Sluggard Prince, and The King and I. This is the highest you can get on Thaiwand wall at 5.10d or below.
From the ledge note the large stalactite up and right, the top of which is your desired belay. Don't get lost in all the other anchors.
P1 (80 ft) 5.10d - Climb up and left on the juggy face of Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera. After the second bulge make an easy short traverse right and head toward and then up the stalactite. This traverse connects to the upper part of The Sluggard Prince. This avoids a bad traverse from the top of E, E, E and gains good climbing. Continue up the stalactite and belay.
P2 (110 ft) 5.10a - head up and left on some sharp rock then it turns juggier and just below the cave belay it becomes steep. Enjoy the awesome belay seat in the cave.
If you're floating continue up the 7b+ and 6a upper pitches of the King and I.
From the ledge note the large stalactite up and right, the top of which is your desired belay. Don't get lost in all the other anchors.
P1 (80 ft) 5.10d - Climb up and left on the juggy face of Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera. After the second bulge make an easy short traverse right and head toward and then up the stalactite. This traverse connects to the upper part of The Sluggard Prince. This avoids a bad traverse from the top of E, E, E and gains good climbing. Continue up the stalactite and belay.
P2 (110 ft) 5.10a - head up and left on some sharp rock then it turns juggier and just below the cave belay it becomes steep. Enjoy the awesome belay seat in the cave.
If you're floating continue up the 7b+ and 6a upper pitches of the King and I.
Location
Gain the ledge on the right side of the wall via the bamboo approach ladder. Start from the highest point on the ledge.
Descent: You are supposed to be able to reach from the top of P2 to the top of P1 with one 60m rope but we didn't make it. We were able to get down by accessing the Lord of the Thais belay and some back clipping. Do yourself a favor and plan for 35 m rappels with a 70m rope or two ropes.
Descent: You are supposed to be able to reach from the top of P2 to the top of P1 with one 60m rope but we didn't make it. We were able to get down by accessing the Lord of the Thais belay and some back clipping. Do yourself a favor and plan for 35 m rappels with a 70m rope or two ropes.
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