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Belaying at the top of pitch 1.
|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
I'm going to refer to this as The King as it is a commonly done variation of Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera, The Sluggard Prince, and The King and I. This is the highest you can get on Thaiwand wall at 5.10d or below.
From the ledge note the large stalactite up and right, the top of which is your desired belay. Don't get lost in all the other anchors.
P1 (80 ft) 5.10d - Climb up and left on the juggy face of Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera. After the second bulge make an easy short traverse right and head toward and then up the stalactite. This traverse connects to the upper part of The Sluggard Prince. This avoids a bad traverse from the top of E, E, E and gains good climbing. Continue up the stalactite and belay.
P2 (110 ft) 5.10a - head up and left on some sharp rock then it turns juggier and just below the cave belay it becomes steep. Enjoy the awesome belay seat in the cave.
If you're floating continue up the 7b+ and 6a upper pitches of the King and I.
Gain the ledge on the right side of the wall via the bamboo approach ladder. Start from the highest point on the ledge.
Descent: You are supposed to be able to reach from the top of P2 to the top of P1 with one 60m rope but we didn't make it. We were able to get down by accessing the Lord of the Thais belay and some back clipping. Do yourself a favor and plan for 35 m rappels with a 70m rope or two ropes.
12 bolts and threads.
views from the top of pitch 2