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 ADVANCED
Redgarden - Tower One
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alice in Bucketland T 
Apple Strudel T,S 
Art Of Slappiness, The S 
Art's Spar T 
Better Layton Never S 
Blueberry Boodle T 
Body Tremors T 
Chockstone Chimney T 
Consummation Nite T 
Daedalus T 
Deadpoint T 
Dirty Deed T 
Doub-Griffith T 
E.L.100 T 
Electric Aunt Jemima T 
Exhibit A T 
Exit Stage Left T 
Flashdance T 
Fresh Garbage T 
Grand Giraffe T 
Icarus T 
Ignition S 
Italian Arete T 
King Cobra, The T 
Magic Bus T 
Magic Carpet Ride S 
Magic Route T 
Mellow Fellow T 
Mellow Yellow T,S 
Memory Lapse T 
Mickey Mouse Nailup T 
Much Slater (left variation) T 
Neptune's Bible T 
Neurosis T 
One and a Half Hours of Power T 
Over the Shoulder Stuff T 
Parting Shot T,S 
Phallus In Suck-It-Land T 
Pigeon Crack T 
Psycho Pigeon T 
Psychosis T 
Reaper T 
Rocky Raccoon T 
Roll Over Rover T 
Rosy II - (In Memory Of Layton Kor) T 
Rover T 
Ruper T 
Ruper to Grand Giraffe T 
Short Arm Inspection. T 
Smoke & Mirrors T 
Song of the Dodo T,TR 
South Face of Tower One T 
Super Slab T 
Superspar T 
Three Old Farts Young at Heart T 
To RP or not to Be T 
Untouchables, The S 
Variation to Third Pitch of Yellow Spur T 
Vertigo T 
West Arete (of T1), The T 
Without A Net T 
Yellow Fellow T 
Yellow Spur, The T 
Ytrid Deed, The T 

The King Cobra 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Scott Bennett and Blake Herrington, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 757
Submitted By: Scott Bennett on Sep 22, 2010

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King Cobra in Red. Climber is leading Rise Above, ...

  • Subject to Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This is a new pitch starting off the Upper Ramp of Redgarden Wall, between upper Ruper and The Serpent. It goes to the 2-bolt anchor atop The Serpent's first pitch.

    First, approach the route by doing something that takes you to the Upper Ramp. For a similar grade, maybe check out Evangeline (A0 through the roof above the 11a first pitch and do the spectacular 5.10+ 2nd pitch). Ruper, Rosy Crucifixion, Le Toit, Guenese, and many other routes can also bring you to the Upper Ramp.

    The Serpent starts in a striking, left-facing, left-leaning dihedral. It quickly bust right out onto a hueco-ed face and climbs just above the leaning corner.

    Start King Cobra 40’ left and uphill of The Serpent. Pull a low chossy roof into a small, LF corner, and then continue up the face via thin seams (5.8 R, small wires and RPs). About 50’ up, join the major, LF dihedral (in which The Serpent started). Stem up the steep corner (5.10) with good gear (0.5-2” cams). Pull over the lip of the dihedral, now more of a roof (crux), and join The Serpent above its last bolt. Climb the last 10’ of that route to a comfy ledge and 2 bolt anchor.

    This is a fun pitch, worthy as a top-rope after leading P1 of The Serpent (no directionals needed), or as a lead. We TR'ed first to check it out and do some cleaning, but the gear is definitely good enough to lead this ground up.

    Location 

    Upper Ramp of Redgarden, between upper Ruper and The Serpent.

    Protection 

    Standard rack up to #1 Camalot, with doubles from #0.4 to #0.75. RPs.


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