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Cactus Cliff
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The Killer Toupee 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 668
Submitted By: Stich on Jan 28, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Killer Toupee on a warm, Winter's day. Crux is the...

Description 

Not to be confused with "Cellulite District," this is the unbolted and wider dihedral directly to the left of this line.

A stiff, finger lock 5.10b crux start gets you to a small ledge and the beginning of a twin crack system in a dihedral. Easy face moves combined with hand jams and stems move up to an overhanging upper crux. Good jamming technique rewards the crack practitioner.


Protection 

At one time a trad line with cold shut anchors, this route now sports all bolts.



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By MarkGriffin
From: Goretex-Vortex, CO
Apr 20, 2011

Found no loose rock on this the other day. Stiff moves off the ground but it's worthwhile for the upper corner.

By M Lindfors
From: Highlands Ranch
Dec 30, 2012

There now seems to be a route that climbs the north face/arete. It is right next to Common Crimp but not the bolted crack. I am guessing it is new?

By slim
Administrator
Mar 4, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The arete route has been around for a while. Cactus Pad, 11a. Ok climbing but a lot of hollow plates and loose/brittle flakes. Bolts are a bit far apart, given the probability of a hold breaking.