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This route is 15 feet right of Plan B, and is another guaranteed super-classic. Climb 40 feet of tricky 5.11 to a nice no-hands rest, then begin the business. The route stays continuously difficult for another 35 feet through a capping roof, though the crux is noticeably harder than the rest of the route (and REALLY hard for shorter people). If you're really tall (like, over 6 foot by at least a few inches), the crux will come statically and relatively easily. For everyone else (myself included), it's a little bit dynamic and definitely super-reachy. A fantastic route.
12 QDs or so. Double bolt anchor.
Ted about to latch the finishing jug.
Jan 31, 2011
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
Got on this for the first time the other day- climbs way better than it looks from below- lots of long moves between positive crimps. The quality is diminished by the fact that it shares a rest with Hot Flyer to the right (and possibly another hold?).
|By Curt MacNeill|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2012
This route is flippin' hard. I have heard by many that the route has a height-dependent crux and many people do it dynamically. I am only 5'7" and could do the move entirely static by using very high feet and opposing sidepulls. This route seemed every bit of 5.13 to me. The feet were very tricky in a lot of spots, beta was a bit tricky to figure out at the crux (especially if your short), and the final pull over the lip requires some juice, hence where the route probably gets its name. Great route, though!!!