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The White Wall
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The Joker 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jimmy Symans
Page Views: 3,965
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 30, 2006

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The Joker

Description 

This is an endurance fest- or not. Hard start to balancy moves to steep moves to a rest. Then the crux comes in a sequency move out a crescent shaped hold. Then don't mess up getting to the anchors.


Location 

Second route from the right.


Protection 

Many bolts to chain anchors. Make sure you don't lower your climber all the way to the ground, just to the ledge, or you may lower them off the rope.



Photos of The Joker Slideshow Add Photo
Even the start to The Joker is pretty darned hard! Tomas Robison leads.
Even the start to The Joker is pretty darned hard!...
Colin hitting the first jug rail on a fine February day!
Colin hitting the first jug rail on a fine Februar...
Tomas Robison sets up for the tricky final crux section of The Joker.
Tomas Robison sets up for the tricky final crux se...
And check out those shades!
And check out those shades!
Not bad for a warm up, <br />Colin Cox crankin
Not bad for a warm up,
Colin Cox crankin
Comments on The Joker Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 6, 2006
rating: 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

I recommend sticking the first bolt. The start 'jug' broke off a couple of years ago and you start by deadpointing off of not much to a baseball. If you are under 6' your feet will likely come off when you get the rounded hold.

The crux is up higher and after the crux is balancy and slightly run out, considering you are pretty pumped by this point.

PS. shoulder slings on draw 3 and 4 will help with drag up higher.

By Michael Sokoloff
From: Spokane, WA
Oct 22, 2006

Fantastic crux sequence. There are good rests leading up to the crux bulge. Once you leave the final rest jug before the bulge it is all business without a good rest for the next 2 clips. I don't think I would call this route an endurance-fest however; once through the bulge you can get back over your feet (and off your arms)for the less steep but somewhat heady finish.
I found the start rather tedious with severe tendon-tweaking potential. Definitely a detraction from the route. Be careful and don't try it without first clipping the first bolt.

By Krista m
Oct 18, 2007

The start sounds the same it was 10 years ago. Those holds broke off a long time ago. I also wouldn't call this route an endurance fest. I've sat on the ledge before the crux. Great climb!

By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 14, 2007

Definatly not the same as it was 10 years ago- the start jug broke about 3 years ago making the start much more difficult and even more necessary to stick that first bolt. I didn't feel that long draws were needed on the 3rd or 4th bolt for rope drag, but if you're worried about it, it's pretty easy for normal sized people to reach down and unclip the 3rd after clipping the 4th.

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Jul 25, 2008
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A fun route. Maybe next time I will get it clean.

I didn't stick clip the first bolt, but lucked out in that there were fixed draws already up.

By John McMullen
From: El Portal, CA
Apr 23, 2009

It's great to see some nice pics of The Joker ... I was never good at taking pics, ever.

By Colin Cox
Oct 1, 2010

The F.A. was by Jimmy Symans - on lead with hooks was his story.