|Type:||Trad, Snow, Alpine, 7 pitches, 2000', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||John Mattson, Josh Zimmerman, John Burchey 1999(?)|
|Submitted By:||Richard Shore on May 20, 2013|
|Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park!|
|Comments on The Jester||Add Comment|
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By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Oct 4, 2013
Apparently this was renamed Arizona Highways after the first ascensionists took it to the summit. Climbed 7 pitches in 1999 and named it The Jester. returned the next year and renamed it Arizona Highways, from what I've read in the AAJ
I'm pretty confused. It seems that there are three cracks at the base. The Blade (what Richard describes as the flake/splitter in the orange rock) and the two cracks that make up the obvious "tooth" or "V". Maybe the right crack of the "V" hasn't been climbed and/or named? Above this right crack and The Blade, is a sweet looking corner...
At any rate, here's some beta. We took the left hand crack which is described here; a long, big hands/fists sppppllliiiiiiter in very clean white rock. Later in the season, we had to climb a ~40 foot, fun 5.9 corner before and to the right of the lone bolt and main crack. One could have climbed directly to the bolt/splitter but it looked easy/lame/dirty.
On the 3rd pitch, one has the choice of an overhanging offwidth feature or a sweet 5.10 corner to the right. This corner is probably the crux of the route. And it's got an insane death block at the top fwiw. It seems like this is the way people go though as there was slingage, even though the wide crack is the more obvious line. Some more sweet cracks take you to the end of the hard climbing. I guess it was around 7 pitches altogether. You may or may not have to pull the rope back out depending on comfort/route finding. We encountered no snow until the actual summit (well, south, smaller summit) in late July. We were able to find water in multiple places though.
A #4 c4 is highly recommended and can be used/is the only pro in many places (not just the first pitch).
We went to the summit and decided to rappel the Gargoyle Buttress since we had been up it before and seemed way more attractive than downclimbing endless, loose 3rd class. If you decide to go back down the route, consider going down the ridge to the Munchkin. The route is most certainly a grade IV if you go to the summit
Very worthwhile with a lot of quality 5.10 on clean rock. I'd definitely recommend just going to the top of the hard climbing for one of the best routes in the area.