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 ADVANCED
Special Spot
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Decathlon T,S 
Javelin, The S 
Opening Ceremonies T,S 
Semi-Final T 

The Javelin 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Gordon Briody 1995
Page Views: 699
Submitted By: ScottH on Sep 27, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: The Javelin
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Description 

The Javelin ascends an obvious and striking flake on the right side of the Special Spot. Pleasant moves up the initiala face lead to steep, extended laybacking and underclinging to the top of the flake.


Protection 

Bolts. You may want an optional 3" piece, or smaller gear down low. However, I found the bolting quite reasonable without any gear.

There is a bolted chain anchor on top. The bolts are good, but the chain is configured in a dangerous way. It is backed up with slings. Consider bringing some webbing to replace these slings as they age.



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By Rafe
May 5, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Sick route. Such a cool feature. The lieback is super positive but the clips are slightly awkward unless you clip at your waist. I would recommend a #3 though. If you blow your first lieback clip without a #3 placement, or even fall on your way to it, you're gonna hit the low angle slab below.

By Keenan Waeschle
From: Bozeman, MT
Feb 8, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

sketched myself out on the upper lieback, next time I'll bring a number 4 C4 and walk it up, the 3 that I had was totally tipped out. route's frickin awesome.

By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
7 mins ago
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

It would be bold to climb this with no gear. The lower run-out is pretty easy but takes good medium gear,There is a hard move between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. the upper crux feels like 10b and really run-out without a #4 after the 5th bolt.