Three sustained pitches. Pitches 1 and 3 are open faces with thin seams. Pitch 2 is a meat-and-potato pitch: long, muddy and strenuous.
1. Climb easy slabs for fifty feet to a steep wall. Follow a seam (A3) to a three-bolt belay (130', A3).
2. Move left into a slot angling up and right. Up this and the long continuation crack in the obvious muddy left-facing dihedral to a tiny perch and three-bolt belay (170', A3).
3. Gain a poor seam ten feet right of the belay and follow this for thirty feet to a bolt (invisible from below) and jog right into a better crack leading to a zone of broken and dirty ledges. Finagle your way through this zone to a crack in a flare. When this ends, tension left into an crack in an obvious deep slot; up this to the big ledge and a three-bolt belay (130', A3+).
4. Move right to join the North Chimney route. Grunt over a bulge, pass a few bolts, then climb mostly free up the chimney to the large ledge under the final bolt ladder (A1, 5.7R, 90').
5. Up the North Chimney/Phantom Sprint bolt ladder past about ten bolts (A0, 30')
The Iron Chef starts about forty feet right of Phantom Sprint.
Descent: Rappel the route (or rap Phantom Sprint)
1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres, 2 Knifeblades, 4 Leepers, 6 Lost Arrows, 4 Standard Angles, 2 each larger angles to 2". Selection of nuts. Cams: 2- to 3 each from 0.5" to #5 Camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Iron Chef in blue. Phantom Sprint in red.
Chip Wilson, Pitch 1 of Iron Chef
Chip Wilson cleaning Pitch 2 of Iron Chef
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2007
Kudos, Crusher! Excellent name. What is the "secret ingredient"? Mud?
|By Brad Brandewie|
May 17, 2007
"1 Rurp, 8 Birdbeaks, 10 Toucans, 3 Peckers (large), 2 Spectres"...
Well there's a gear list you don't see every day!
Nice work Crusher and Chip!
Oct 20, 2012
How are the rap anchors on this for descending Phantom? Is a bolt needed/helpful or are the anchors fairly new? Looks like the FA was 2007, is that correct? any info would be great!
|By Steve "Crusher" Bartlett|
Apr 17, 2013
Three bolts on each belay. All good bolts, placed in 2007 (all are 4", most are half-inch). Top anchor has a good ledge, next one down has a small ledge for one person to stand or sit, lowest anchor has very little, semi-hanging with a sloping footledge as I recall.
Yeah, the rap line is pretty direct, might be quite convenient for rapping Phantom Sprint.
|By Jeremy Aslaksen|
From: Albuquerque, NM
Apr 18, 2013
YUR GONNA DIE FER SURE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Looks like a great route...perfect for Summer!