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South and East Faces
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interesting problem below, The 
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The interesting problem below 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: myself and matt gross
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 549
Submitted By: Christian B. Baird on Jul 11, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Look closely and you'll see the "glint" of the anc...
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The crack feature is directly one crack to the right of
best in minnesota, has a cross-shaped horizontal break near top.
Lead clean in 01'
Anchors I personally drilled w/ park ok, by hand excellent and new. Thanks frank

Can slightly see line in the hi-res Durrance photo.


Protection 

I used a a lot of Aliens up to 2", shallow placements, couple o nuts that size



Comments on The interesting problem below Add Comment
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By Just Another Anonymous User
Aug 5, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I did this "variation" in about 1987. Don't remember seeing any bolts... but I do remember the crack got really wide up top.

By Christian B. Baird
Aug 21, 2005

It is one crack right of Best Crack in Minnesota. bolted anchors.
has large semi detached flake that has to be stood on to reach first placement.

By Christian B. Baird
May 13, 2008

In a horizontal I found a nut Curt love thought might be his
as was his high point. And I still have the tweaked Hb 7 curve nut. Truly a bomber
locked in the back nut placement. That sweet wave of calm temporaily went over me when this sinker was frantially clipped.