Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Loch Vale & uphill
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alaskarado 
Brain Freeze 
Central Buttress T 
Circling Sharks T 
Cold Storage 
Crypt, The T 
Deep Freeze T 
Dirty Peeps Variation 
Dog House T 
Double Tap T 
Dry Ice T 
Freezer Burn 
Inquisition, The T 
Leftist Activity 
Necrophilia T 
North Face Icefield T 
North Gully 
Northwest Buttress of Powell 
Northwest Face Route - Thatchtop or Northeast Gully? T 
Petit Gully, The T 
Plan D T 
Prise de Fer T 
Production, The T 
Quicksilver T 
Sex With A Live Person T 
Sublime Vision T 
Taylor Glacier T 
Timberline Falls T 
Tunnel Vison T 
Upper Wall 
Vanquished (Powell Peak) 
Wham Couloir T 
Womb with a View T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Inquisition 

WI5 M5

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 4 pitches, 550', Grade IV
Consensus: WI5 M5 [details]
FA: Greg Sievers & Brian Verhulst (*incomplete)
New Route: Yes
Season: FA - October 29, 2007
Page Views: 1,863
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Apr 3, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Inquisition (M5) shown on Vanquished Wall.

Description 

Located on the left side of the Vanquished Wall, just right of the base of a large buttress. This route climbs up and right from the start in a large RFD at the base. the first two pitches trend right.

P1 - stem past several small loose blocks and ice blobs and up 30' into a dish (the bigger gully contiinues left - don't bother). Step right into a a pair of cracks and climb directly up until they peter out. Step right, and make a 15' traverse right into a 5' wide chimney. Continue til you use up most of your rope, and have a 2' square ledge to belay on. (M4).

P2 - follow the chimney directly above until in constricts down to a squeeze. It will slant up and right, and continue in that style until it opens into a large basin. (M4).

P3 - climb up ledges in this 30' bowl and aim for the obvious, ice-plastered wall above. There is a 5' kite-shaped chockstone above, and the ice flows around that. Move up this WI5, pass the kite stone and belay on a large ledge immedately below a verglas ramp. (M5).

P4 - use the RFD for nuts to protect the verglas for 20', then commit to the ice for another 30'. Scratch up over the bulge and continue past ledges, aiming for a 12" rising (to the right) fold in the rock. the upward rising crack continues above the fixed (current final) station.

  • * We ran out of day here, but it appears the line continues for about 2 more pitches on this wall.

Location 

This is 150' left of Vanquished.

Circumnavigate Sky Pond, and depart the shore up into the gentle valley/gully headed toward the Vanquished Wall. This gully will lead directly to the wall, but instead of turning right toward Vanquished, continue up and left into a large cleft and big, right-facing dihedral (see image).

3 rap stations descend the wall on a plumb line:
Top rap station = sling & nut, 150', step 10' right.
2nd rap station = nut & sling atop groove. rap 135'.
3rd rap station = land on a 12" ledge, step 5' left to 2 nuts, rap 135'.

Protection 

The usual alpine mixed rack and 6 stubby screws.


Photos of The Inquisition Slideshow Add Photo
BV followng P1.
BV followng P1.
Brian Verhulst leading the start to P4, on the ver...
BETA PHOTO: Brian Verhulst leading the start to P4, on the ver...
Most of P3 in view. GS just completing the crux.
Most of P3 in view. GS just completing the crux.
Route topo.
Route topo.
BV leading P4.
BETA PHOTO: BV leading P4.
Sky Pond below & the path of access.
BETA PHOTO: Sky Pond below & the path of access.
Looking up at P3, where the WI5 & M5 moves around ...
Looking up at P3, where the WI5 & M5 moves around ...
The developed line thus far.
BETA PHOTO: The developed line thus far.
View looking up from the start at P1 & P2. The rap...
BETA PHOTO: View looking up from the start at P1 & P2. The rap...
The Vanquished/Inquisition wall on Powell Peak (zo...
The Vanquished/Inquisition wall on Powell Peak (zo...

Comments on The Inquisition Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -