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South Face - Left Side
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Chauvinist, The T 
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The Innominate 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: FA Chuck Wilts and Gary Bloom, August 1947 FFA Royal Robbins and Jerry Gallwas, 1957
Page Views: 1,681
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Feb 25, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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BETA PHOTO: Follow the corner.

Description 

This short climb has strenuous and awkward jamming in a deep corner. The first pitch starts with an easy traverse, then a 5.8+ finger jam, and easy hand jamming up to an awkward belay on top of a block. The crux second pitch goes over an overhang via hand jamming, liebacking, and stemming.

Protection 

Gear to 3 or 4 inches


Photos of The Innominate Slideshow Add Photo
Jake Humping over the crux
Jake Humping over the crux

Comments on The Innominate Add Comment
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By Graham Roff
Jun 5, 2006

It is possible to do all the significant climbing in a single pitch and belay above the 5.9 section at a better stance. This leaves the second pitch as a scramble to the top. Just watch for rope drag when placing gear.
Fun route to do on the way down the friction descent. Great exposure and position.
By Richard Shore
Oct 7, 2011

This route becomes a drainage after a rain. Wanted to do it, but it was flowing with water today.
By Tradoholic
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Looks like this is often over looked, it's about 1.5 pitches and worth a lap, not awkward for me and had some nice exposure. Take P1 past the overhanging part to a nice ledge.
By dnaiscool
2 days ago

I think this is a terrific route. It may be short, but the setting is sort of intimidating, and the crux is full on gorilla laybacking up a double overhanging book. I did this with Mike Jaffe back in '74 with only nuts, and we belayed at the funkness below the crux. I'd recommend this to anyone leading at that level, so bring it on and pump it out!!
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