This is a bolted climb which starts 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.
Pitch 1 (10d, 90'): Climb past 11 bolts to a bolted anchor. Keep well to the right of the bolts after the 4th bolt, crux moves are near the 2nd and 9th bolts.
Pitch 2 (11a, 85'): Head up and slightly left from the anchor. Pass 6 bolts on your way toward a roof. Pass the roof on its left side, making the crux move to reach a dike. Move to the right about 10' to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (10d, 90): Step right on to easy ground and move up to a bolted crack. Climb the crack as the climbing gradually becomes more difficult toward its end. Move left away from the crack at its end (10+) then head up and right to the anchor. This would have been stellar as a mixed pitch (bolts are needed to protect the middle third of the pitch), however, for better or worse, it is entirely bolted.
One more easy pitch can be done if you have gear. Otherwise rap the route.
A topo for this climb can be downloaded from
Starts approx 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.
Christian topping out on the third pitch.
|By manuel rangel|
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 27, 2010
Loved the route but I was sandbagged into believing it was a 5.10c crux. I did fall and finally figure it out; crux bulge move is exciting and well protected.
From: Casa do Cacete
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
For those new to the area, the first pitch is a good introduction to harder Cochise slab. And you can just lower off if you want. After the first bit, it's more friction and smearing like the first pitch of Warpaint than microedging like the first pitch of Stampede.