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The Inevitable Awaits You
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.2 from 33 votes
Type: | Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Scott Ayers, et al. |
Page Views: | 2,862 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Oct 4, 2009 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is a bolted climb which starts 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.
Pitch 1 (10d, 90'): Climb past 11 bolts to a bolted anchor. Keep well to the right of the bolts after the 4th bolt, crux moves are near the 2nd and 9th bolts.
Pitch 2 (11a, 85'): Head up and slightly left from the anchor. Pass 6 bolts on your way toward a roof. Pass the roof on its left side, making the crux move to reach a dike. Move to the right about 10' to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (10d, 90): Step right on to easy ground and move up to a bolted crack. Climb the crack as the climbing gradually becomes more difficult toward its end. Move left away from the crack at its end (10+) then head up and right to the anchor. This would have been stellar as a mixed pitch (bolts are needed to protect the middle third of the pitch), however, for better or worse, it is entirely bolted.
One more easy pitch can be done if you have gear. Otherwise rap the route.
A topo for this climb can be downloaded from
toofasttopos.com/free/
Pitch 1 (10d, 90'): Climb past 11 bolts to a bolted anchor. Keep well to the right of the bolts after the 4th bolt, crux moves are near the 2nd and 9th bolts.
Pitch 2 (11a, 85'): Head up and slightly left from the anchor. Pass 6 bolts on your way toward a roof. Pass the roof on its left side, making the crux move to reach a dike. Move to the right about 10' to the anchor.
Pitch 3 (10d, 90): Step right on to easy ground and move up to a bolted crack. Climb the crack as the climbing gradually becomes more difficult toward its end. Move left away from the crack at its end (10+) then head up and right to the anchor. This would have been stellar as a mixed pitch (bolts are needed to protect the middle third of the pitch), however, for better or worse, it is entirely bolted.
One more easy pitch can be done if you have gear. Otherwise rap the route.
A topo for this climb can be downloaded from
toofasttopos.com/free/
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