The Increasing Grade  5.9- R

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Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.9- [details] FA:  Gardner Hui & Kevin Earls on 6-Jun-2010 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Gardner Hui on Jul 21, 2010 You & This Route Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>> Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Face climb at 30-degree traverse left towards an arete that is 7ft to the right of Taco Time's top anchor. The climb start easy 5.4, then becomes 5.5, 5.6, 5.7, etc. till at the arete 5.9. Thus the name of the route. There's a jug on top of the arete -- reach to it is the crux. Top off from the jug or traverse left to the double-bolt top anchor of Taco Time. The route is full of lichen and absolutely no chalk mark -- indication of no traffic so far. To top belay or top rope, try not to use the trees 20-30 ft back from the edge. There's a rock horn on the ground 15 ft back that you can loop you rope on it.

Location 

First locate Taco Time -- it start at the left side of a boulder with a line of bolts going up. Walk around the boulder. The Increasing Grade start from the right side of the boulder. There's a big and a small tree there. Start right of the trees as well to prevent damaging them.

Either rap down the double-bolt top anchor from Taco Time, or hike down from the left side of the wall.

Protection 

So far we (Gardner Hui and Kevin Earl) only top roped the route. There's hardly places for the pros. We'll go back to check when we have times.