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Incinerator Wall
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The Incinerator 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Chuck Scott, 1992
Page Views: 5,132
Submitted By: C Miller on Aug 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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John Cardmon making the clip before attempting the...

Description 

A local classic that tackles the steep face/arete on the north side of the formation.

Mostly good holds the entire way with an obvious crux past the third bolt, where a long reach gains better holds above. A hold broke in the crux area several years back, but the grade remains intact, if not more solid than before.

Super fun and well-protected, this is a popular one to finish the day or oneself on.

Protection 

4 bolts, sport anchors


Photos of The Incinerator Slideshow Add Photo
Must. Climb. More. Overhangs.
Must. Climb. More. Overhangs.
A bad pic of the start of Incinerator.  But I thought Ben's mohawk and hypnotic look made a decent shot of it.
A bad pic of the start of Incinerator. But I thou...
This jug filleted my hand twice.
This jug filleted my hand twice.
Tom D - clipping mid-crux
Tom D - clipping mid-crux
Going left: Reaching past the arete from the big undercling.
Going left: Reaching past the arete from the big u...
Tom Donnelly starting the crux sequence of Incinerator
Tom Donnelly starting the crux sequence of Inciner...

Comments on The Incinerator Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 19, 2007

Steep!
By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Aug 18, 2009

Best route at Holcomb? Certainly the best I've done. Athletic and bouldery on a gorgeous lichen tinged wall with somewhat sustained and difficult movement up to/through the crux. A welcome change from the slabby edge surfing more typical of the area. Not overly tricky, this makes a good onsight candidate (I failed and had to go back another day for the send).
By Wes Goulding
Sep 5, 2010

I recently stepped up to this route & I found the only way for me was slightly to the right of the arete. I don't actually hold any of the chalked up holds on the arete or the two horizontals left and high on the arete. I never get more than an arm span to the right of the bolt line. Also, the way I do this route makes placing and clipping all the draws easy. I am probably doing an easier variation. Seems like 11c? Am I doing it wrong? How is everyone else doing it? What is the current beta?

Thanks in advance & sorry if this is in the wrong place.


Just looked at the video below. Is that the "Full rating beta?" or is this the easier way? No offense to anybody intended. This is the way I do the route except no dyno. Thanks.
By Ryan Kelly
From: work.
Dec 8, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

It sounds like you're going straight up from the third bolt instead of traversing the little roof left and throwing up to the holds on the other side of the arete. Perhaps it's a little contrived, but it's a 30 foot "route" that is basically a boulder problem with a bit of fluff at the start and end. Going straight up would pretty much bypass the bulk of the route.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2012

Assorted vids for those who want beta; two different approaches to the crux in these. Burly climb, you don't even realize how steep it is until you're standing underneath it about to start or belay.

Full ascent: Full ascent on Vimeo


Crux only: failure on Sickygnar and success on Sickygnar
By John Dubya
Aug 12, 2012

Cant really appreciate how steep this is until you stand under it. Climb the 5.9 way left and traverse right at the top to get to the anchors so you can hang the draws. Trust me youll want the draws hung on this one for the red point. Dyno crux!
By Nick Tunnicliffe
Aug 16, 2013

I felt the beta at the crux to be strange. Going left onto the holds on the face felt awkward. Going right appeared to be a cop out. Not sure if I used the correct beta, but either way it was a fun finish to that jug.
By Phil Esra
May 5, 2014

Oof, steep, powerful, reachy crux. Can easily get to the anchor from above to set a TR. A higher anchor 6' up protects the moves down to the lower anchor.

The TJ Esposito vid above has really helpful basic beta, but that climber must be damned tall. At 5'6" I have to come at it pretty differently overall. Sliding a toehook along in the roof crack lets me get set up better underneath the dyno jug.
By Coon
Jul 30, 2014

I pre-hung the draws but found it was unnecessary. While the route is far from easy, the clipping holds are bomber and you're dealing with air falls.