I spent a number of days trying this route and was shut down by weather.
This is the climb to do in Smuggs. It starts off on a two positive crimps at about head height. You make a move up to a terrible two finger pocket that nearly ripped all of my skin off. Then slap your feet on terrible edges and smear on the left part of the arete. Make a very difficult move up to a terrible hold on the lip. Slap a large bucket and finish.
Felt really hard for the grade to me. That polished schist...
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Apr 8, 2010 rating: V87B
If you can do this problem you will have some street cred in VT
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Jun 1, 2010 rating: V77A+
This description is a little odd: the pocket is definitely sharp, but you can easily get four fingers in it, and it's even crimpable.
Also - anyone think that the right exit (which I've heard referred to as "the Improbable Problem") is worth it's own entry? I think it's probably a touch harder than Impossible, but not a full grade harder.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Havertown, PA Jun 2, 2010
"The Improbable Problem" is a separate problem unto itself, not just an alternate ending our right. "T.I.P." starts on the steep arete/roof around the corner and to the right of "The Impossible Problem". It is an independent line that ends a few feet to the right of the prominent prow. FA--Ethan Peck, 2004.
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Jun 2, 2010 rating: V77A+
Cool. Thanks for the info Chris. I assume it starts sitting on the big block just to the right of Impossible and climbs slopers up the arete/roof feature.
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Aug 8, 2010 rating: V87B
So it seems the sharp crystal pocket has broken as of two weeks ago. I can't say that it suprises me this has happened as it had been flexing for years. Regardless, what remains is a crimp that isn't quite as good and the consensus seems to be that it's now a solid V8. I would agree with this as I was working on it today and the moves felt very "campus-like" and more desperate than before.
Chris - Actually I did the FA of the Improbable. Ethan was going to call it the Impeckable if he had gotten the FA. Bummer to hear that the hold on the Impossible broke but pretty amazing that it lasted as long as it did.
I've found that if you are on the tall side, alternate beta makes this considerably easier. Instead of making the move to the broken pocket first, I use the starting hold as a gaston and crank up left hand to the crimp on the lip...
By Lanky From: Portland, ME Sep 30, 2011 rating: V77A+
The former pocket apparently broke again. Sounds brick hard now.
Morgan Thump and Forest Thump on the other end of the boulder are the problems that are no longer doable. A large boulder that fell off the deep end buttress is now pasted to the face right where the line of "Thump" was. Primate is still intact, but may be slightly contrived now.
By Colin R From: Ottawa, ON Sep 13, 2013 rating: V87B
The hold has broken yet again from my understanding and is complete crap now. There's no way it is V7 anymore....
I've done this a few times since the holds in question broke. I start with left and right hands on crimps with NO feet and campus to the crimp rail under the broken pocket with my right hand. Then I campus again with my left to the crimp on the lip. Get feet then finish as it always has.
Can we get a grade update on this? I don't think you can call it V7 when it was called a 7 before the key hold broke. Most people's submitted grades on here are from before the break. I've personally struggled on it and seen other strong climbers struggle on it enough to warrant the V8 grade.