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Central Slab Area
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Egyptian Sandfish S 
Imaginator, The S 

The Imaginator 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 375'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dave Tidwell et al.
Page Views: 1,291
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Sep 11, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: The Imaginator 11c, topo

Description 

The Imaginator is a consistant and fun outing up the center of the Imagination Wall.

Begin at the center of the wall near a fairly tall tree. There are three small, short dihedrals here (maybe 40' tall). The leftmost one has a black roof/bulge extending from it's top off to the left. Begin in the rightmost one.

P1: Climb up the dihedral past a few bolts then continue up the face above to a pillar-feature. Bear-hug up this feature past two or three bolts, then through the roof (crux) and belay at an uncomfortable stance underneath another roof. 130', 5.11c.

P2: Skirt the roof to the left then head up to a very obvious wedge-shaped corner/roof feature. Pull around this to the left and establish above with some difficulty. Continue up to a good belay stance. 100', 5.11b.

P3: Climb up off the belay past a bunch of weird iron intrusions. A difficult blank stretch leads to easier climbing and the top of the wall. 120', 5.11a.

Rap the route with a single 70m rope. Make sure your rope is not a hair shorter than 70m -- you can only get down from the 3rd and 1st pitches with rope strech.


Protection 

18 draws for the first pitch, 10 for each of the last two pitches.



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By PDF
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R

First pitch is amazing!!

By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Apr 21, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R

Anyone finished it? I thought that the first pitch was sick while being very well bolted. What's up with the second pitch? I fell clipping the bolt over the roof and totally decked against the slab! I'd say this route is definately an "R" rating. I don't get it... any beta?

By Ryan Franz
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 9, 2010

I remember I got the second lead when I did this back in 2004--I also took a weird fall against that slab. Made it kind of hard to go back up there and try it again, but it does come together. The third pitch is excellent, worth the trickiness of the second pitch!

By David Balfour
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 25, 2013

We rappelled each pitch with a single 70m. Just be careful though, the rope stretch is needed to get to the ground. Also, on pitch 2, I wouldn't give it an R rating, if you can climb the 1st pitch, 2nd isn't any harder; right when you pull that roof and start thinking about the slab below, you'll see a bolt right there in your face you couldn't see until you were there - so don't fret! - have your belayer take out any unnecessary slack and you'll be fine.

By Joe Wysznski
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Sweet Route!! 1st pitch is the probably the hardest physically but the 2nd pitch crux is way harder mentally. 3rd pitch is really cool with a difficult thin section. Thank you Dave Tidwell for this route! This is definitely a classic, go try it.