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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
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Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
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Prison Sex T 
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Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

The Human Factor 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp & Dan Hare, 1980
Season: not summer
Page Views: 309
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Feb 9, 2013

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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Human Factor is another Alec Sharp classic in an area full of them. Although not long nor the most aesthetic appearing climb, this route truly climbs like a dream! The technical difficulty of the climbing and the gear placements increase as you ascend this one. Climb the slab to the base of the overhang where you can get good gear above in the beginning of the dihedral crack. Climb the dihedral with increasingly technical moves to a tenuous stance prior to the final difficulties. The two larger Loweball slider nuts fit very well here. Stem out the cruxy top of the dihedral and romp up the corners to the tree finish where an anchor can be made or move R to the Sooberb anchor. Although certainly more serious at the time of the FA, modern gear protects this climb reasonably well. I think its habanero heat on the spicy scale, maybe only jalepeno, overall it's reasonably safe. I find it a little difficult to grade, it didn't feel like it had 5.12- pulling on it, in fact it's not particularly powerful; but it is devious, technical, and sustained, I think the grade is something like 11+/12- PG13/R. The quality and grade feels similar to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers.


Location 

Human factor climbs the obvious, right-facing dihedral of red-brown rock, left of Court Jester and approximately 30 right of Sidewall (just right of Quiet Desperation).


Protection 

Gear: SR with emphasis on finger and smaller sizes including off-set nuts, micro-cams, and ball-nuts.



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