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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Barrel of Monkeys 
Bloke On The Side 
Bridget the Midget 
Byway 
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Conversions 
Court Jester 
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Dandi-Line 
Dead Letter Department 
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Erickson's Finish 
False Prophet 
Fever, The 
Going Postal 
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Handcracker Direct 
Hanging Chad 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
Human Factor, The 
Hyperspace Roundup 
Ignominity 
Ignore Me 
Iron Horse 
Knife, The 
Lightning Bolt Crack 
Lost in the Netherlands 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up 
Mail Ridge, The 
Mesca-Line 
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Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 
Practice Climb 101 
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Prison Sex 
Pygmy Pony 
Quick Silver 
Quicksand 
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Reckoning 
Rhombohedral 
Seemingly Innocent 
Side Wall, The 
Sister Morphine 
Sooberb 
Sooberb Lite 
Thin Ice 
Think Quickly 
Unbroken Chain 
variation to Mail Ridge 
Warp Drive Overload 
Who's Holding 
Wind Tunnel 
Zeros and Ones 

The Human Factor 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp & Dan Hare, 1980
Season: not summer
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Wayne Crill on Feb 9, 2013
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Description 

Human Factor is another Alec Sharp classic in an area full of them. Although not long nor the most aesthetic appearing climb, this route truly climbs like a dream! The technical difficulty of the climbing and the gear placements increase as you ascend this one. Climb the slab to the base of the overhang where you can get good gear above in the beginning of the dihedral crack. Climb the dihedral with increasingly technical moves to a tenuous stance prior to the final difficulties. The two larger Loweball slider nuts fit very well here. Stem out the cruxy top of the dihedral and romp up the corners to the tree finish where an anchor can be made or move R to the Sooberb anchor. Although certainly more serious at the time of the FA, modern gear protects this climb reasonably well. I think its habanero heat on the spicy scale, maybe only jalepeno, overall it's reasonably safe. I find it a little difficult to grade, it didn't feel like it had 5.12- pulling on it, in fact it's not particularly powerful; but it is devious, technical, and sustained, I think the grade is something like 11+/12- PG13/R. The quality and grade feels similar to Foxtrot and Crazy Fingers.


Location 

Human factor climbs the obvious, right-facing dihedral of red-brown rock, left of Court Jester and approximately 30 right of Sidewall (just right of Quiet Desperation).


Protection 

Gear: SR with emphasis on finger and smaller sizes including off-set nuts, micro-cams, and ball-nuts.



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