Start as for the Angel Dyno but move more or less straight up to a small but positive right hand crimper. Find the foot beta and make a long reach to the lip. Mantle it out and move along. A great sequence.
By JGHarrison From: Reno, NV Dec 24, 2011 rating: V46B
the guidbook calls it "Left exit" or something like that and puts it at V4
By Andy Hansen From: Longmont, Colorado Dec 24, 2011 rating: V56C
You're right. The V5 variation is something silly like "use the hold as a left hand gaston..." and then make the same move to the lip. Sort of a contrived variation. I suppose a soft V5 is appropriate for the grade.