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California
> Lake Tahoe
> Highway 50 Corr…
> Lover's Leap
> Main Formation
> Central Wall
The Hourglass
5.11a/b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.4 from 8
votes
Routes in Central Wall
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Bookmark T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Left T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Buttress, Right Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fallen Hero T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hourglass, The T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Lover's Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Roofer Madness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 475 ft (144 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Harding, Long, Rankin |
| Page Views: | 3,166 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Jul 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Details
ATTN CLIMBERS: Temporary Intermittent Closure Warning
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Surrealistic Pillar, Lower Buttress, Lover’s Leap
From July 7 – August 12, 2023
Access Fund & CRAGS + TCC + BACC Adopt-a-Crag Trailwork In Progress
There will be intermittent closures of climbs at the Lower Buttress for both climber and worker safety. Climbs affected will include all routes between Surrealistic Pillar Direct and Sinbad-Herbert.
We all know how popular Surrealistic Pillar is! We understand that this may pose an inconvenience for your weekend climbing plans; however we MUST mitigate the erosion at the base as soon as possible.
Work will occur Wednesday to Sunday from 8:00 AM – 3:00 PM from July 8 until August 12 with volunteer work days on Saturdays. There will be a steel cable & griphoist ‘high line’ rigged, which is used to haul and transport large rocks. Please be aware of this hazard AND the potential for large rocks to be moved above you while you are hiking through this area.
Alternative climbs that access the top of Lower Buttress and that can be used in place of Surrealistic Pillar include:
• The Groove 5.8, 2 pitches
• The Farce 5.5, 2 pitches (variations at 5.7, 5.8 & 5.9)
Hiking Access to the Main Wall / Ledge is also still possible via the Main Wall Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's right) OR the Tombstone Ledge Approach Trail (from Lower Buttress up climber's left).
info@norcalcrags.org
Description
A hard to find route that starts on dirty right-facing flakes. Climb flakes up and left to a good ledge (200', 5.8). The second pitch climbs a thin seam with some old fixed pins. Back them up with small cams and launch up the easy but dangerously runout slab with dikes to a gear belay in an alcove. Look for old slings. From here climb a continuous crack system for multiple pitches through the huge roofs. Bolt belays have been added. I'm trying to be more vague because I don't remember the specifics. The top out pitch is long and it is hard to communicate with the belayer. A very cool climb, of course its a Harding route. Maybe one of the better 11s at the leap. Wild exposure, great crack climbing.
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