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The Hourglass 

YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 475'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Harding, Long, Rankin
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: V.X. on Jul 6, 2012

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caughtinside nears the alcove belay at the top of ...

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Description 

A hard to find route that starts on dirty right-facing flakes. Climb flakes up and left to a good ledge (200', 5.8). The second pitch climbs a thin seam with some old fixed pins. Back them up with small cams and launch up the easy but dangerously runout slab with dikes to a gear belay in an alcove. Look for old slings. From here climb a continuous crack system for multiple pitches through the huge roofs. Bolt belays have been added. I'm trying to be more vague because I don't remember the specifics. The top out pitch is long and it is hard to communicate with the belayer. A very cool climb, of course its a Harding route. Maybe one of the better 11s at the leap. Wild exposure, great crack climbing.

Protection 

Standard rack to 4", runners.


Photos of The Hourglass Slideshow Add Photo
Spectacular position on the Central Wall. caughtinside pulls through one of the many wild roofs on The Hourglass. P2.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano <br />
Spectacular position on the Central Wall. caughtin...
First pitch off the main ledge. The route climbs toward an alcove at the center of the 'hourglass' and then follows the upper-right crack system through numerous exposed roofs on white granite.  <br /> <br />Photo: Corey Gargano
First pitch off the main ledge. The route climbs t...
Looking up from the P1 alcove belay. Climb up and right into the roof systems and higher quality rock. Heads up: there's a lot of loose blocks and plates in the alcove.
Looking up from the P1 alcove belay. Climb up and ...

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