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 ADVANCED
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Adrenaline Surfer S 
Assembly Line T 
Back to Montana T 
Belle Fourche Buttress T 
Broken Tree T 
Buckspeck S 
Burning Daylight T 
Casper College T 
Everlasting T 
Gooseberry Jam T 
Hourglass, The T 
Maid in the Shade T 
Missed Opportunity T 
New Wave T 
Patent Pending T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Soaring T,S 
Spectator Sport T 
Surfer Girl T 
Team Ropin S 
Witchie T 

The Hourglass 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury September 2008
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,217
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Dave Elder enters the pod low on the Hourglass.

Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An excellent anomaly that Pat aptly characterized as, "the average man's Animal Cracker Land". Unlike the typical Tower corner, this one follows an elegant wavy fracture crack up a vague prow. It's easily identified by the large lower pod, reminiscent of a Yosemite feature. The crack opens and closes throughout, providing big moves between sinker locks. Start on the lower crack of Dump Watt, cut right into the big pod, exit this and stem a bit up the corner to the right (Marriage Was my Worst Mistake), before being forced to commit to the fracture crack entirely for some cruxy pulls, and exit left on faceholds into the final 20' of Dump Watt to beefy, brand-new anchors. Thought-provoking, sustained, and surprisingly steep--this is a very unique pitch for the Tower with a distinct character!

Location 

The wavy fracture crack between Dump Watt and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. Two cracks right of the direct start to Belle Fourche.

Protection 

Double set of stoppers and cams through #3 camalot. One C4 #4 camalot. A few long runners for the lower section.


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By TomKingsbury
Oct 10, 2008

i thought it was .10++ haha

very good route though....highly suggested!

cheers,

patrick
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Oct 11, 2008

ha, yeah they really need to add that option in the ratings list... although I just now remembered we'd all agreed on .9+ as seeming fair...