Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Harry Kent
Page Views: 15,602 total · 71/month
Shared By: Chris Sheridan on Apr 10, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Hourglass Couloir is an excellent alpine route similar in nature to Dreamweaver but with more sustain difficulties, a bit harder cruxes, and a more remote setting. The route involves about six long pitches of roped climbing through gullies and around chockstones.

Location Suggest change

The route is an obvious gully in the middle of the north face of Arrowhead Peak directly above Solitude Lake. Descend via the Southeast gully to Black Lake (may require some rappels) or climb west to the low point of the ridge between Arrowhead and McHenry's, then drop down and right back to the Solitude Lake cirque (I haven't tried this descent, but in hindsight it seems to be the best).

Protection Suggest change

A standard mixed rack works fine.

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