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The Houlding-Pickles game changer.
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Jul 11, 2012
In the past we worked out sequences by trading leads with a usually unwilling partner. On The Prophet, Leo Houlding and Jason Pickles worked solo off a Grigri on a fixed line. Leo noted two advantages in his video. First, you can work things out solo, on your own time, without annoying your partner, who needs to show up only on the red point try. Second, the Grigri allows you to build in as much slack as you will ever get on the lead, so when it comes time for the lead, it actually feels like a done deal. Also, the Grigri beats working with jumars where more than likely you would be unwilling to take a fall. I mentioned this to Diana Rogers who felt that the Grigri might be huge disadvantage in the event of falling upside down. I've compared the Houlding-Pickles to other solo methods and it seems dramatically better than most other choices for dialing in a red point. Any other thoughts? Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points
Jul 11, 2012
Bucky
....a link to the video would help. J. Albers
From Colorado
Joined Jul 11, 2008
2,221 points
Jul 11, 2012
I used a Gri Gri to TR solo a project last summer. Most climbers find the slack to be annoying, I felt that it made me stronger, since pulling up the slack was similar to stopping to place the protection. I tied backup knots every so often. Mick S
Joined Sep 24, 2007
94 points
Jul 11, 2012
...and the fact that you can quickly descend and immediatley begin climbing again without having to futz with two pieces of hardware as is the case when using a Mini Traxion, e.g. rig rap device to rope, remove Mini Trax (or at least disengage cam), descend and then before climbing re-engage MT, remove rap device. This is especially beneficial when working a crux section repeatedly. The ability to quickly descend, often times a short distance, and 'get busy' is hugely significant. The Mini Trax is great for mileage/laps but a bit tedious for re-working crux sections. ABB
Joined Mar 1, 2007
3 points
Jul 11, 2012
wham bam hand jam. Wrapping up the final moves of ...
how do you keep the biner from cross loading? use a quicklink? Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
3,733 points
Jul 11, 2012
Guys have been solo top roping on grigris for a long time. I don't think I'd call it a game changer.

The reason the traxion method is so popular is because you don't have to face those lobs onto a grigri. It does have the disadvantages of being harder to work a section and having to switch devices to lower.

The world's most famous toproper once told me that he only uses the cinch, that way if he falls he can lower straight to the ground.
caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Joined Nov 21, 2006
1,898 points
Jul 11, 2012
I use a Trango cinch with a DMM belay master biner, works awesome. rope goes through the cinch easy and you can just rap right back off your fixed line Reggie7
Joined Aug 27, 2006
283 points
Jul 11, 2012
Nick Stayner near the crux. Ryan Minton photo.
caughtinside wrote:
The world's most famous toproper


Surfer Bob?
Nick Stayner
From Billings, MT
Joined Mar 6, 2006
2,586 points
 
Jul 12, 2012
Only a game changer for the dolts like myself who have always worked projects with a climbing partner/belay slave. Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points
Jul 12, 2012
video link: iclimb.com/products/Psyche-2-D... Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points
Jul 12, 2012
make sure you back it up with knots or something else ... bearbreeder
Joined Mar 1, 2009
1,876 points
Jul 12, 2012
Beagle
Darren Mabe wrote:
how do you keep the biner from cross loading? use a quicklink?


I just use a burly steel biner
Bryan Gilmore
From Your Mama
Joined Nov 7, 2005
1,065 points
Jul 12, 2012
Which way again?
Top roping being a game changer.

Wack.
Cunning Linguist
Joined Feb 15, 2007
2,478 points
Jul 13, 2012
Its not the top rope that's key, it's working out cruxes solo. However, if you'd be okay serving endlessly as my belay slave, I'll happily forgo the Grigri !!!!! Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points
Jul 13, 2012
Young Good Free Face, 11b
Rapping a single line with a GriGri will singe your rope. Or at least in my unfortunate experience. It was a 10.5 too.

Edit: it was a long ways & didn't waste any time getting down. I don't use the GriGri for rope soloing anymore but after this experience I started using an ATC to get down. The extra 30 seconds to switch over was worth not trashing the rope.
J. Broussard
From CordryCorner
Joined Feb 21, 2011
112 points
Jul 13, 2012
In the traverse section, double rainbow in the bac...
Jeffeos wrote:
Rapping a single line with a GriGri will singe your rope. Or at least in my unfortunate experience. It was a 10.5 too.

What? I've never heard of this, and it has never happened to me before either.
Alex McIntyre
From Tucson, AZ
Joined Jan 14, 2011
377 points
 
Jul 13, 2012
OTL
Jeffeos wrote:
Rapping a single line with a GriGri will singe your rope. Or at least in my unfortunate experience. It was a 10.5 too. Edit: it was a long ways & didn't waste any time getting down. I don't use the GriGri for rope soloing anymore but after this experience I started using an ATC to get down. The extra 30 seconds to switch over was worth not trashing the rope.


I imagine if you rapped 30 seconds slower, the rope would have been fine.
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
338 points
Jul 13, 2012
Young Good Free Face, 11b
Matt N wrote:
I imagine if you rapped 30 seconds slower, the rope would have been fine.


I'm one of those crazy types that is always pushing for another pitch, an earlier departure, and faster partner and every thirty seconds feels like a lifetime if I could have saved it. Just think about how every 15 seconds I save adds up over the lifetime.

No, I blame my mom. She's a crazy lady in regards to efficiency and now I'm a crazy man.
J. Broussard
From CordryCorner
Joined Feb 21, 2011
112 points
Administrator
Jul 13, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
Beagle wrote:
I just use a burly steel biner


same here. i have a bunch of wraps of duct tape at the end of the spine to keep the grigri from slipping down the spine of the biner. i also use a chest harness, which helps keep it upright.

these days i usually just use an ascender though. feeds easier.
slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,001 points
Jul 13, 2012
LOL at "game changer". Higgins was working the Owl Roof self-belayed with a jumar in 1973. Will S
From Joshua Tree
Joined Nov 15, 2006
1,219 points
Jul 14, 2012
Matt N wrote:
I imagine if you rapped 30 seconds slower, the rope would have been fine.


+1

How much time will you lose buying a replacement rope?
Gunkiemike
Joined Jul 29, 2009
1,666 points
Jul 15, 2012
Guys- the crossloading on the biner won't break the biner, but will break the Gri gri. It will happen on a quick link or a beefy steel biner. The best thing to do is to put some tape rounds on either side of the grigri to keep it where you want it. Don't die man. Tim Kuss
From Durango, CO
Joined Jun 14, 2009
230 points
Jul 16, 2012
Self belay with a jumar is exactly not the point. We've been doing that for a couple of decades as well. Slack built up with a jumar results in the jumar inverting, and by no means can you fall on it. Running a jumar above the Grigri creates a standad top-rope, perfectly fine if you are just checking things out. It's worth taking a look at Houlding/Pickles on the Prophet, if you have not. They build up enough slack to generate truly long falls, then reel in the slack, and they are both doing it on hard overhanging 5.13. "game changer" may over state the notion, but I have not seen anyone around our local crags working cruxes in just this way. In playing with this system recently I've started out using a jumar and Grigri combination and then dropping the jumar when I think I'm close. For me anyway, my actual time working a crux has been multiplied ten fold. Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points
Jul 16, 2012
A link for a $15 on-line video? Don't think I have the stoke you do. BScallout
Joined Jul 16, 2009
18 points
 
Jul 16, 2012
Near Sky Pong Below Taylor Peak
I know i'm behind the times, but is there any difference for this purpose in the gri gri versus the gri gri 2? ZANE
From Cleveland, OH
Joined May 6, 2011
43 points
Jul 16, 2012
Try this one, it's more expensive but its a good video:
chesslerbooks.com/item/11336-p...

Grigri 2 lets you work off a thinner lead line. Mine is 9.6.
Richard M. Wright
From Lakewood, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
9,484 points


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