The Hot Spur  5.8

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 470 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  Bob Culp and Stan Shepard, 1961 Submitted By:  Kevin Currigan on Aug 1, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: The upper pitches of Hot Spur. Climb straight up ...

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

If you can find it, you can climb it. This one is way up on Redgarden; keep hiking. If you make it to the 3rd class walkoff you've gone just a bit too far. Seriously, pass by Rewritten, Grand Course, and Sunstar (first pitch chimney is easy to spot). Just as the trail starts to switch back to the left (away from the wall) look back to the wall and find the best path to get there. This area is pretty steep and seems to be prone to erosion. From this point on, we constantly wondered if we were on route. I think we got close but corrections or clarifications are certainly invited. That said...we found the start of the route by locating what Rossiter describes as a large fallen block. The block angles against the rock and opens uphill with a small pine on top. It makes a nice spot to shoe up as the hillside is steep and loose. This spot is also in the shade of trees which is nice when it's 90.

P1 - Just a bit uphill from there a crack diagonals up and to the left with a small pine just a few moves away. Climb straight up (awkward but easy) to gain a second crack and follow this a bit left then up. Supposedly, there is a chimney in the area but we never spotted one. The closest being a wedge-shaped corner. Just to the left a 12'-15' vertical crack provided a couple fun (5.7?) moves up to a ledge and the belay. It is probably 100' of 5.5-5.6 overall.

P2 - This pitch started with another short vertical section followed by 3rd/4th class for another 150' up a loose and rocky ramp. This gully is so loose it is impossible not to launch a rock or two. Be certain to position your belay with this in mind. In addition, try setting some occasional high pro to keep the rope up. As you reach the top of the gully the rock firms up and rises in a series of aretes. Set the belay as soon as the rock will take it.

P3 - The last pitch is described by Rossiter as "a slightly overhanging, left facing corner". Pick your way to the top. Although the rock is still questionable, there are some interesting lines. We chose a broken crack up a less than vertical face. The rock got bad and my leader dropped into the gully to finish the lead (5.5 into 4th). Seconding, I cleaned the first half then climbed back down and onto the arete-vaguely reminiscent of Icarus/Yellow Spur.

Protection 

Standard rack.

Photos of The Hot Spur Slideshow

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Chris Taylor on pitch 1 at crux (not really a chim...	BETA PHOTO: Hot Spur. Start by a short left-angling crack wit...	BETA PHOTO: The start of Hot Spur. Climb a left-angling crack...
On the last pitch which is the best of the route.