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BETA PHOTO: The Host
Begin about 10' right of Rage Against the Machine and 15' left of Jungle Blues from Jupiter. There's a better photo of the route under the entry for "The Vaino Step." Follow a line of 5 bolts up a moderate .10b face toward an arete on the right. The 6th bolt is drilled into a large, sloping rest ledge under a 130 degree roof. Undercling the roof then clip the 7th bolt from a chalky, 3/4" edge. Stretch or dyno from the 3/4" edge to a left hand jam in an abrasive crack (strenuous) and work your feet up crystals until you can reach a fin on the right. Clip the 8th bolt (a difficult clip with ledge-fall potential if you bypass it) and struggle over the lip of the overhang on mediocre hand holds. The anchors are a few feet up to the right. Lower 60' from links.
The 15' of climbing from the ledge to the anchors is sustained with several moves of .11c or .11c/d. Tape or a spider mitt will save some skin on your left hand.
8 QDs (A shoulder length sling to extend the 6th clip is optional).
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Accidently climbed this thinking it was Rage.... When I was up there, I was thinking 'damn, this is tougher than I remember it'. Kind of an awkward flick to a weird jam.