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Upper Cliff
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The Horn 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 4,614
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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mike catching a rest before finishing up the send!

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Description 

Slippery feet and good locks....
Start up the steep, finger crack using some polished feet outside of the crack.... A tricky crux section of locking and perhaps a layback move will get your foot on the "horn" feature and an OK rest.... One more crux guards the top out involving a high, right foot, some power, and grace....

A very important climb for me....Probably the first "hard crack" I climbed, and it is still teaching me more than 10 years later...Climb it!


Location 

The horn is just right of the easy to identify Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... Nice finger crack up a smooth vertical wall....


Protection 

Nuts and cams to #0.75 Camalot (green)....
Fingers to small cams....

Top-rope may be set by slinging a boulder at the top and equalizing off of a small tree or two...



Photos of The Horn Slideshow Add Photo
Me, topping out The Horn....
Me, topping out The Horn....
The upper section of The Horn....
The upper section of The Horn....
Here I'm just starting up The Horn, the crux (in my opinion) is right above me.... Sorry about the bad lighting....
Here I'm just starting up The Horn, the crux (in m...
jamming
jamming
The Horn... pretty...
BETA PHOTO: The Horn... pretty...
mike getting toward the crux
mike getting toward the crux
Lookin straight up the Horn.
BETA PHOTO: Lookin straight up the Horn.
Mike finishing it up like a pro
Mike finishing it up like a pro
Mike hitting the horn...
Mike hitting the horn...
Keith
Keith
Comments on The Horn Add Comment
Show which comments
By BrianWinslow
From: Concord, NH
May 30, 2007

What is the history of the chopped bolt at the top of this route?

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 30, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

History is that someone (I don't know who) borrowed Jay Miller's (old UNH prof./Grad student) and placed bolts where it would save the trees at Pawtuckaway. Very soon afterwards Mike Shore (a local photographer) chopped the bolts. This was about 2 1/2 years ago....

There was a forum thread about this topic on that other site

Climbers who are so ethically opposed to using bolts will find out soon that TRing off trees kills them and that it makes sense to have bolts when it'll save the top of the cliff's vegetation. I just hope there are some trees left when climbers come to this realization.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 31, 2007

I agree with Ladd about the damage to the trees (though I don't want to see Pawtuck bolted)....
However, I build my TRs on this route mostly on the boulder at the top with a little help from small trees (pointless, I think), so on this route the anchor thing shouldn't be an issue, 'cause we won't wear out the boulder....

By Casey Bald
Oct 29, 2007

Actually, the bolts in question that were chopped were not on the horn, but on the roof (5.7), and mike didnt chop them Mark "ron don snake bite" Clark did the chopping and I smoked a joint.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Oct 29, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

My mistake. I remembered talking to Mike and he asked me who put the bolts there, he wanted to know whose work he chopped, although now that I think about it he could have been talking about a different route.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Aug 9, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

5.9 me arse. If it were 10 or 15 feet longer it would get 4 stars for sure. The granite is so perfect.