mike catching a rest before finishing up the send!
Slippery feet and good locks.... Start up the steep, finger crack using some polished feet outside of the crack.... A tricky crux section of locking and perhaps a layback move will get your foot on the "horn" feature and an OK rest.... One more crux guards the top out involving a high, right foot, some power, and grace....
A very important climb for me....Probably the first "hard crack" I climbed, and it is still teaching me more than 10 years later...Climb it!
The horn is just right of the easy to identify Obscene Phone Call (5.8).... Nice finger crack up a smooth vertical wall....
Nuts and cams to #0.75 Camalot (green).... Fingers to small cams....
Top-rope may be set by slinging a boulder at the top and equalizing off of a small tree or two...
What is the history of the chopped bolt at the top of this route?
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH May 30, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
History is that someone (I don't know who) borrowed Jay Miller's (old UNH prof./Grad student) and placed bolts where it would save the trees at Pawtuckaway. Very soon afterwards Mike Shore (a local photographer) chopped the bolts. This was about 2 1/2 years ago....
Climbers who are so ethically opposed to using bolts will find out soon that TRing off trees kills them and that it makes sense to have bolts when it'll save the top of the cliff's vegetation. I just hope there are some trees left when climbers come to this realization.
By lee hansche Administrator From: goffstown, nh May 31, 2007
I agree with Ladd about the damage to the trees (though I don't want to see Pawtuck bolted).... However, I build my TRs on this route mostly on the boulder at the top with a little help from small trees (pointless, I think), so on this route the anchor thing shouldn't be an issue, 'cause we won't wear out the boulder....
Actually, the bolts in question that were chopped were not on the horn, but on the roof (5.7), and mike didnt chop them Mark "ron don snake bite" Clark did the chopping and I smoked a joint.
By Ladd Raine Administrator From: Plymouth, NH Oct 29, 2007 rating: 5.95c17VI17HVS 5a
My mistake. I remembered talking to Mike and he asked me who put the bolts there, he wanted to know whose work he chopped, although now that I think about it he could have been talking about a different route.
By Adam Winters Administrator From: the Shire Aug 9, 2011 rating: 5.10-6a18VI+18E1 5a
5.9 me arse. If it were 10 or 15 feet longer it would get 4 stars for sure. The granite is so perfect.