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First Strike Area
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The Hopfenperle Special 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TA Horton, Steve Erskine, 1979
Page Views: 509
Submitted By: Brandon Huff on Nov 25, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Obvious Corner

Location 

Right of First Strike.

Protection 

Standard Rack


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By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A great lead for the beginning trad leader. If this is your first trad lead, either climb with a bit of confidence, or bring a whole lot of small to medium gear. My partner got a little scared of the slightly overhanging top-most section, tried sewing it up a little too much and ran out of gear for the last 10 feet. Phrases like "I want my mommy!" and "I want to go home" were yelled from her position above her last pro. It was a little dirty, but the rock is good. Climb with confidence all the way to the top. It's all there, including slings on a tree.