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Tyson on the start of the face.
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The Hook starts a few pitches off the ground, with a variety of starts possible. The climb protects pretty well, but an ugly swinging fall is possible on the slabby crux traverse after leaving the crack. To approach the Hook, I recommend the following:
P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8
P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear. Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6
P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse. Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8
P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack. It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5
Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground. From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn. One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station. Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.
Standard Rack. Nothing big is needed even though it appears that way from below.
Tyson halfway through the face sequence.
Third shot of Tyson on the Hook's face.
Second pitch of The Hook. The easier wide crack.
Maura climbing the slab to the belay after "The Ho...
BETA PHOTO: Boissal using modern gear to protect the Hook but ...
BETA PHOTO: Face moves between leaving the crack and reaching ...
|By Peter Gram|
From: Park City, UT
Jun 22, 2004
Just like the Hook Variation, the other 2 possible approaches to this climb are Schoolroom or Schoolroom Direct.
|By Mark Michaels|
From: Draper, UT
Jun 24, 2004
Beckey and Kor, say no more!!!
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2004
This linkup with Bushwhack is one of my favorites. As Peter said in his description, you can traverse to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the variation. I strongly recommond traversing to the 3rd bolt. It may not seem like it from down below, but this traverse is more straight-forward than the lower one. Also, you get the benefit of climbing the entire flake before jumping out onto the slab.
A #3 camalot is handy for the top of the flake.
|By Nathan Fisher|
Jun 13, 2005
Good, but just sooooo short. If you decide to do the 2nd pitch, one can descent off of The Hook Direct's anchors. They are west of the finish along the slab. One 70m rope will barely get you to the base of The Hook.
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 3, 2005
I think the ``R'' is from the original state of the route: sans bolts. As I said before, go to the top of the flake before traversing, it is very nice.
|By vincent pierce|
Sep 8, 2005
Do you like to layback up great rock with super good stances to place pro? Of course you do! Really fun but alas, it ends so quickly. 3 stars if it were longer. Still... the slab traverse out of the flake and the finish up the hook variaton is quality. Don't let the "R" rating keep you from doing it. It's only 10' or so from the flake to the bolt.
|By Shaun Greene|
Oct 9, 2006
This line is great!! It is worth doing this climb just for the sequence of moves on the upper slab. Definately do the slab moves to the third bolt!! The moves are all there with the correct foot sequence.
Nov 17, 2007
Vincent Pierce said:
"10' or so from the flake to the bolt."
Sometime in the 90's I think, this bolt was added. In the old days, the bolt wasn't there... very sad.
|By Greg G|
From: SLC, UT
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.8- R
Its 10' to the 2nd bolt which would make you traverse straight sideways setting your rope into a hellish scenario. 20' up and right to the last bolt before the chains makes for a very committing climb.
Dec 3, 2009
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 4, 2009
The route is too short for the rope drag to be heinous, I have never considered traversing over to the the bolt line early, why would you do that?
I skipped the bolt last time and still didn't think it was that scary and I am a big wuss, the big swing might suck though.
Last time we were up there, I did see someone nearly fall off the move gaining the slab over the top of the hook flake, not going to mention any names but their name starts with B and rhymes with Ryan and they muttered something about slick new shoes...... (Not bsmoot)
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jun 16, 2011
I accessed the hook via a slab traverse from bushwack crack's 2nd pitch. There is one bolt about 10 feet directly to the left of the crack that allows a mild slab section that ends right at the hook's anchors. I don't think this is the standard way but it was fun nonetheless.