The Hook 5.8 R
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Fred Beckey & Layton Kor '61 |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Jun 22, 2004 |
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Tyson on the start of the face.
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description The Hook starts a few pitches off the ground, with a variety of starts possible. The climb protects pretty well, but an ugly swinging fall is possible on the slabby crux traverse after leaving the crack. To approach the Hook, I recommend the following:
P1) Bushwhack Crack's first pitch, 5.8
P2) Make a couple of moves from the chains, then traverse left on big footholds until the first crack that accepts gear. Follow this up to a fixed anchor. 5.6
P3) The Hook - climb the beautiful flake with huge holds inside it. At the top, traverse right to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the Hook Variation, depending on what level you traverse. Work the slab up to another fixed anchor. 5.8
P4) Step right into an easy water trough/crack. It takes small gear well, and ends on a low angle shelf 100 feet up.5.5
Descent) After P3, 3 one rope raps following the fixed anchors from the way up gets you to the ground. From P4, downclimb easy ledges to a rap off of a horn. One rope gets you down to the Callitwhatyouplease rappel station. Another one rope rap in the gully with some easy downclimbing gets you back to the ground.
Protection Standard Rack. Nothing big is needed even though it appears that way from below.
Tyson halfway through the face sequence.
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Third shot of Tyson on the Hook's face.
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Second pitch of The Hook. The easier wide crack.
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Maura climbing the slab to the belay after "The Ho...
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The Hook
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BETA PHOTO: Boissal using modern gear to protect the Hook but ...
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Mid hook
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BETA PHOTO: Face moves between leaving the crack and reaching ...
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By Peter Gram
Administrator
From: Park City, UT
Jun 22, 2004
| Just like the Hook Variation, the other 2 possible approaches to this climb are Schoolroom or Schoolroom Direct. |
By Mark Michaels
From: Draper, UT
Jun 24, 2004
| Beckey and Kor, say no more!!! |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2004
rating: 5.8
| This linkup with Bushwhack is one of my favorites. As Peter said in his description, you can traverse to either the 2nd or 3rd bolt on the variation. I strongly recommond traversing to the 3rd bolt. It may not seem like it from down below, but this traverse is more straight-forward than the lower one. Also, you get the benefit of climbing the entire flake before jumping out onto the slab.
A #3 camalot is handy for the top of the flake. |
By Nathan Fisher
Jun 13, 2005
rating: 5.8
| Good, but just sooooo short. If you decide to do the 2nd pitch, one can descent off of The Hook Direct's anchors. They are west of the finish along the slab. One 70m rope will barely get you to the base of The Hook. |
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jul 3, 2005
rating: 5.8
| I think the ``R'' is from the original state of the route: sans bolts. As I said before, go to the top of the flake before traversing, it is very nice. |
By vincent pierce
Sep 8, 2005
rating: 5.8
| Do you like to layback up great rock with super good stances to place pro? Of course you do! Really fun but alas, it ends so quickly. 3 stars if it were longer. Still... the slab traverse out of the flake and the finish up the hook variaton is quality. Don't let the "R" rating keep you from doing it. It's only 10' or so from the flake to the bolt. |
By Shaun Greene
From: www.UtahShaun.com
Oct 9, 2006
| This line is great!! It is worth doing this climb just for the sequence of moves on the upper slab. Definately do the slab moves to the third bolt!! The moves are all there with the correct foot sequence. |
By bsmoot
Nov 17, 2007
| Vincent Pierce said:
"10' or so from the flake to the bolt."
Sometime in the 90's I think, this bolt was added. In the old days, the bolt wasn't there... very sad. |
By Greg G
From: SLC, UT
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.8- R
| Its 10' to the 2nd bolt which would make you traverse straight sideways setting your rope into a hellish scenario. 20' up and right to the last bolt before the chains makes for a very committing climb. |
By bsmoot
Dec 3, 2009
| hellish scenario.
??? |
By Shaft
From: Salt Lake City
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.8
| The route is too short for the rope drag to be heinous, I have never considered traversing over to the the bolt line early, why would you do that?
I skipped the bolt last time and still didn't think it was that scary and I am a big wuss, the big swing might suck though.
Last time we were up there, I did see someone nearly fall off the move gaining the slab over the top of the hook flake, not going to mention any names but their name starts with B and rhymes with Ryan and they muttered something about slick new shoes...... (Not bsmoot) |
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Jun 16, 2011
| I accessed the hook via a slab traverse from bushwack crack's 2nd pitch. There is one bolt about 10 feet directly to the left of the crack that allows a mild slab section that ends right at the hook's anchors. I don't think this is the standard way but it was fun nonetheless. |
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