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The Hook Variation 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 2,496
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 16, 2004
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (29)
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Following the chickenheaded golden goodness.
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


This pitch starts well above the ground, so the question is what do you climb first to get to it. The way we did it was: 1st pitch: Bushwhack Crack to the chains.2nd pitch: Exposed and runout, but easy traverse left and up until you can get a piece in a crack just above the crux of Mind Blow, and then follow the next 2 bolts up to the anchors.3rd pitch: The Climb ---- Follow a rightward ramp until it ends and then follow the line of 3 bolts up to the anchors on beautiful chickenheads and crystals. A ladder in a sea of granite.Either do 3 1-rope raps or 2 2-rope raps.


3 bolt anchor at the top, and 3 draws for the climb.

Photos of The Hook Variation Slideshow Add Photo
Garred Gomez silhouette.
Garred Gomez silhouette.
Chicken heads
Chicken heads
Garred Gomez, sweet shot!
Garred Gomez, sweet shot!
Jon Behrmann on lead...
Jon Behrmann on lead...
Near the top - right below where the Hook comes in
Near the top - right below where the Hook comes in
Comments on The Hook Variation Add Comment
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By Nathan Fisher
Jun 17, 2004

2 other ways exist to get to this route.1: Climb Mind Blow in it's entirety2: Climb Schoolroom to belay #2 and then take the groove further right then the 3rd pitch and attain the anchors

By vincent pierce
Sep 23, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Stretch yr legs before this pitch. Lots of highstepping foot to hand matches on chickenheads. Flow up the rock with very cool moves. Should be called the Tai Chi pitch. I'll give it an extra star cause it's so high on the wall.

By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Dec 1, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Here is another way to get onto this climb:

Climb the first pitch of Bushwhack as usual. Then climb the left crack on the second pitch of Bushwhack until the crack curves to the right. At this point, skip out onto the slab and straight up toward the knobs on Hook Variation. You can do all of this as one long pitch. Beware, that it is a bit runout until the first bolt this way.

By bsmoot
Nov 17, 2007

Sadly a bolt was added to some of the crux moves of the hook. I'm talking about the final bolt below the belay at the top of the Hook.

Through the 70's and 80's climbers got the thrill of climbing some of the classic, crux moves of the hook (and the Hook variation) without a bolt at their face. Kor and Beckey did it, us old timers did it in our old slippery EB's. Even without this bolt a fall here wouldn't be too bad. Personally, I think the bolt should be removed.

By Sir Camsalot
From: thankgodchickenhead, Ut
Nov 17, 2007

I agree with Brian. A classic like this should be restored.