Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Schoolroom Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bungle, The 
Bushwhack Crack 
Chicken Rodeo 
Great Ripoff, The 
Hatchet Crack 
Heaven's Gate 
Hook Direct, The 
Hook Variation, The 
Hook, The 
Knobs to Gumbyland 
Lizzie Borden 
Mantel Variation 
Mind Blow 
Movie Variation 
Playing Hooky Var. 
Recess Variation 
Rumba, The 
Schoolroom Chimney 
Schoolroom Direct Variation 
Schoolroom Roof 
Schoolroom West 
Scourge, The 
Stone the Crows 
Talus Food 

The Hook Direct 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts, 1977
Page Views: 1,014
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 14, 2005
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>


Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.


2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.

Comments on The Hook Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
By tenesmus
May 11, 2006

It IS a cool nut placement. Fun to do Mind Blow, this and then Knobs to Gumbyland for a slab circuit. Just watch your rappels.

By Brian in SLC
Jul 19, 2006

Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.

Fully argee with the R rating, though.

Brian in SLC

By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R

I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.

In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating.