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Hook Direct, The T,TR 
Hook Variation, The S 
Hook, The T 
Knobs to Gumbyland S 
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Movie Variation T 
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The Hook Direct 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mugs Stump, Jack Roberts, 1977
Page Views: 1,215
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 14, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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Above the Hook Variation is a two bolt slab off the anchors, that deserves to be climbed more often. Getting to the first bolt is heady, but the physical crux is above the 2nd bolt and is well-protected. Very thin and still flakey. After the bolts there is some serious runout to your only gear placement. 2 separate cams (yellow Metolius, purple DMM) can be placed 3 feet apart in a flake system, followed by a very creative nut placement possibility. Run it out again to the rappell anchors.


2 draws, some small to medium wallnuts, a couple of small cams 1" or less.

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By tenesmus
May 11, 2006

It IS a cool nut placement. Fun to do Mind Blow, this and then Knobs to Gumbyland for a slab circuit. Just watch your rappels.
By Brian in SLC
Jul 19, 2006

Isn't this really rated 5.10a? Not 5.10c friction for sure. Night and day difference between this route and Mind Blow.

Fully argee with the R rating, though.

Brian in SLC
By Steve Blevins
From: Central Coast, CA
Jun 5, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

I have done this climb numerous times over the last 20 years. I have repeated it 3 times in the last year or so and was struck with how difficult it seemed. I did it 6-4-11 (yesterday) after an excellent season in RR and feeling comfortable in LCC.

In previous years I never even slipped. I have always thought of it as 5.10a. I slipped once and fell once. It has simply weathered off most of the dime and quarter edges that used to be available. 5.10c R is a fair rating.
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