The Holey Ghost
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|Type: ||Trad, 6 pitches, 1160 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.10a [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var Leads) October 24th 2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Oct 26, 2007|
BETA PHOTO: (A. "The Holy Ghost"5.10. (B. "Reef Knot".5.6R
Enter the wash and start up the slab (small cairn) below and to right of the obvious water streak.Due to the smooth nature of the rock on pitch two drilling on the lead was too difficult, the pitch was rap bolted . This was after a 200' run out way to the left at 5.6X in order to gain entrance into the slot canyon above the pitch.(
P1.(small cairn) Follow a line of closed cracks to a ledge with a short thick juniper tree belay.One # one Camalot pro. 160'5.6R. move belay left to below the water streak.
(P2. Excellent pitch. Climb the water streak past six pro bolts to double anchors in the slot. 150'5.10.
(P3.Easy groove on right to double anchors. 150'5.0.
(P4.Forth class for about 300' above the slot canyon until one can enter back into the slot via dark rock to a pillar in the centre of the canyon.
(P5.Follow the groove/fault that leads to the large pot holes.Some thin moves past two bolts then easy climbing to double anchors left of the top hole. 200'5.8+.
(P6 easy slab to a large open groove ,natural belay. Register in cairn above groove. 200'5.0.
Descent:-One can forth class down slabs for several hundred feet to the anchors at the top of pitch 3 . Three raps to the ground.
Hike north from the Univa trail head for about 20 mins to the Reef Knot formation . see photo.The climb is out of the slot canyon on the south side of the formation. The water streak of the second pitch is easily visible.
One #1 camalot ,quick draws. Two 60m rope
Paul Ross on the 160'first pitch.
Andy Ross starting the 5.10 second pitch
Andy topping out on pitch two.
Paul starting Pitch 5. 200' 5.8+.
Paul high on the 200' holey ghost pitch 5.